This was something we had been meaning to do for years. My husband likes boats and I like wildlife, so a week on the Norfolk Broads kept us both happy.
We started our trip from Horning on the river Bure on 17 May and spent the first night at Ranworth Broad, where the moorings are situated very conveniently for the pub! Over breakfast the next morning, we saw our first Marsh Harrier, one of many seen that week.
We were moored just a few minutes walk from the Broads Conservation Centre. This has a board-walk and visitor centre. I must have missed some geography lessons because I had no idea about how or why the Broads were formed. The interpretation in the visitor centre was excellent. They also had a webcam on a Swallow's nest and there are lots of things that you can handle, e.g. a pike's skull and feathers from birds such as Barn Owl. We also saw the duckling pictured below. The female Mallard had 14 ducklings still with her and this was the only non-standard bird. Over the course of the week, we saw a huge number of odd-looking Mallards.
Next we went on up the river Ant to Barton Broad but the moorings at our intended stop of Neatishead were under repair and there was no room.The wind had started to kick up and we had a very choppy ride. However, we were pleased to find a mooring at How Hill (no pub) and even more pleased when we discovered that it has a nature trail. This is definitely worth half a day. It has two bird hides. The wind was keeping the birds at bay but we saw a Redshank from one of the hides and disturbed a deer in the woods. I think I caught a glimpse of a Swallowtail and the picture of the Four-Spot Chaser was taken here.
Throughout the trip Reed Buntings plus Cetti's, Reed and Sedge Warblers were up close and very vocal. It was wonderful to wake up to such a variety of sound. Cuckoo and Skylark were also much in evidence.
Another good pub and shop stop was Womack Staithes on the edge of Ludham village. Unfortunately, the tides weren't right to get under the bridge at Potter Heigham and we had to miss out on Hickling Broad. Pity - there were rumours of Grasshopper Warbler there, which would have been a lifer for me. The river Thurne is quite narrow on the approach to Potter and I was lucky enough to spot a Cuckoo on a telegraph post. We went to sleep listening to a Tawny Owl hooting.
On then to Acle via South Walsham. This latter is a very pretty spot with chocolate-box houses in the basin area and a very pleasant walk. Lots of Common Terns and Grey Herons here. Acle is a bit busier and close to a main road but has another good pub with more sophisticated food.
The weekend was quite busy on the Broads and there were a few noisy hen and stag parties. Next we moored at St Benet's Abbey ruins. This is another interesting walk. They Abbey ruins are visible for miles in a flat landscape and they have Swallows nesting in them. We were absolutely delighted to wake up and find an otter swimming near our boat.
Back up the river Bure, we stopped at Hoveton for a coffee break and moored next to a reserve run by English Nature. This mooring has room for only 3-4 boats, which meant that we had the reserve almost to ourselves. There was a very helpful guide and the interpretation on the trail was excellent. The reserve has two hides, one directly opposite a platform inhabited by Common Terns. The wind was getting even stronger, which again kept the birds in hiding.
Then on to Wroxham, where we moored just on the edge of the town, having managed to get under the very low bridge and negotiate through a sailing dinghy race. This is another busy place.
Lastly we went up the Bure to Coltishall and back to Horning. The river between Wroxham and Coltishall is heavily tree lined and quite different in character from the vast reed beds elsewhere. This is allegedly a good place for Kingsfishers. Although we saw some apparent nesting sites they were, as usual, in hiding. We saw a Barnacle Goose and a Black Swan on this stretch.
Apart from my bogey bird the Kingfisher, I had hoped to see or hear a Bittern but I think even that loud bird was probably drowned out by the wind. I think May is probably the best month to visit. All the migrants are in and not too busy. Full list of birds seen:
Barnacle Goose
Blackbird
Blackcap
Black-headed Gull
Black Swan
Blue Tit
Buzzard
Canada Goose
Carrion Crow
Cetti's Warbler
Chaffinch
Chiffchaff
Collared Dove
Common Tern
Coot
Cormorant
Cuckoo
Dunnock
Egyptian Goose
Feral Pigeon
Gadwall
Goldfinch
Great Black-backed Gull
Great Crested Grebe
Great Spotted Woodpecker
Great Tit
Greenfinch
Grey Heron
Greylag Goose
Herring Gull
Hobby
House Martin
House Sparrow
Jackdaw
Kestrel
Lapwing
Long tailed Tit
Magpie
Mallard
Marsh Harrier
Moorhen
Mute Swan
Oystercatcher
Pheasant
Pied Wagtail
Redshank
Reed Bunting
Reed Warbler
Robin
Rook
Sedge Warbler
Skylark
Song Thrush
Starling
Stock Dove
Swallow
Swift
Tawny Owl
Treecreeper
Tufted Duck
Willow Warbler
Woodpigeon
Wren
Pat