Valencia/Alicante May 3rd-17th 2006
Just back from 2 weeks in Eastern Spain staying at Oliva Rama Tours guesthouse in Oliva and run by Jules and Amanda Sykes. I must say their kindness, consideration and friendly personalities went a long way towards making this the best trip I’ve had so far, out of about a dozen birding trips, (and Amandas’ great breakfast was enough to keep me going all day!).
Jules was in Extremadura when I arrived but had thoughtfully left me detailed instructions and maps of several sites in the area – I’d never met Jules but soon found out this is the sort of thing he does to ensure you have a great holiday.
So arrived mid-afternoon, dumped the bags, a quick drink and it’s off to Pego Marsh, about 10 minutes away, for some birding. Pego Marsh is a large area of reedbeds, rice fields, reedy pools, scrub and agricultural areas with easily driveable tracks giving access to most of the area. Birds are numerous and easily seen at close range, ideal for photography, which was my main reason for the trip.
Apart from the breeding species there is also a good turnover of birds migrating through with something different being seen on virtually every visit. In fact it was such a good area I spent the first 4½ days there getting good views of everything I saw and some decent pictures of several good species, including Moustached Warbler, a new bird for me, (this is probably now the easiest place in Spain to see them), also a Red-throated Pipit a good rarity for Spain.
Purple Herons are numerous, seemingly everywhere you look, followed by Squacco Herons, 20+ on one evening in one part of the marsh, a few Grey Herons, Little Bitterns, Little and Cattle Egrets, Greater Flamingos on several days, Purple Gallinule, Water Rails, Coot, Moorhen, Little Grebes, Cormorant, Mallard, Red-crested Pochards, 2 Marbled Duck on several days (breeding?), several Marsh Harriers, Osprey, Black Kite, Kestrel, Hobby, Audouin’s 30+, Yellow-legged 100+ and Black-headed Gulls, Whiskered Terns, Little Ringed Plovers, Ringed Plover, Ruff, Redshank, Greenshank, Black-winged Stilts, Wood, Green and Common Sandpipers, Moustached, Savis, Reed and Great Reed, Cettis, Fan-tailed, Garden and Sardinian Warblers, Chiffchaff, Serin, Goldfinch, Greenfinch, House and Tree Sparrows, Reed Buntings, Hoopoes, Bee-eaters, Nightingales, Woodchat Shrikes, Spotted Flycatchers, Spotless Starlings, Crested Larks, Stonechat, Whinchat (a fall of 20+ birds one day), Yellow and White Wagtails, Kingfishers, Great and Long-tailed Tits, Common, Alpine and Pallid Swifts, Swallows and Red-rumped Swallows, House and Sand Martins, Blackbird, Collared and Turtle Doves, Wood Pigeon, Jackdaw, Common Nightjar and a Red-throated Pipit, which I was lucky enough to find (while Jules was away) and even luckier to get some pics to confirm its identity.
That about covers the first few days from 3rd-7th May. Things got even better from now on thanks to the kindness of Jules.
A few more pics from Pego Marsh.
8th May. - Jules had a free day today and offered to show me the Valle de Gallinera area, I jumped at it of course. So after meeting a friend of his, Dena, also visiting the area, and a quick look around the marsh seeing the usual birds plus 3 migrating Honey Buzzards we set off.
Driving through some beautiful mountain scenery with Nightingales singing more or less continually we arrived at our first stop, the Golden Eagle site. Hawkeye Jules soon picked up an eagle landing on the cliff-face, giving great views through the scope before taking to the air and being joined by its mate, we then had prolonged aerial views before they eventually disappeared beyond the crags.
Other birds in the area included 2 Red-billed Chough, Kestrel, Bee-eater, Red-rumped Swallow, Serin, Greenfinch, Cirl Bunting, White Wagtail, Sardinian Warbler and Red-legged Partridge.
A little further up the road we pulled into a garage/restaurant for a cold drink and another scan of the mountains, getting a brief look at one of the eagles again, also Common, Alpine and Pallid Swifts, 4 more Red-billed Choughs, Bee-eaters, Greenfinch, Goldfinch and Blackbird.
I was thinking to myself, here we were sitting at a table in a mountain village restaurant, enjoying the sunshine, the scenery and the birds as if we’d known each other for years – I wonder what other hobbies can create such friendship in such a short space of time?
Jules then disappeared for a few minutes and returned with a large box of local cherries so we pigged out on them before departing for a small valley further on.
Birds en-route to the valley – more Nightingales, 2 Bee-eaters on wires beside the road which we had to stop for as they were Denas’ favourite bird, one of mine too, Short-toed Treecreepers singing, Sardinian Warblers, Crested, Coal and Great Tits, Spotted Flycatcher, Serin, Woodlark, Cuckoo, Stonechat and Turtle Dove.
Arriving at the valley almost the first birds we saw were a pair of Golden Orioles flying into some Poplar trees, so we spent some time here and had great views of 2 pairs flying from tree to tree and eventually a male sat out in the open in full view – what a stunning bird they are. A Wryneck put in a brief appearance for Jules while we only heard it calling, too occupied watching Crag Martins. A male Blue Rock Thrush, Green Woodpecker calling, Crested Tits, Rock Sparrows, Cirl Buntings, Spotted Flycatcher, Serins, Goldfinch, Greenfinch, Sardinian Warbler, Blackcap, Hoopoe and Grey Wagtail completed our short visit to the excellent Valle de Gallinera, producing more birds than expected on a hot afternoon.
9th May – Pego Marsh again trying to photograph a few more species. A slight hiccup in the weather brought cloud with some light rain, the cloud I didn’t mind it made the day longer for photography, however it cleared to a sunny late afternoon and evening. The cloud and rain certainly accounted for the large numbers of Swifts present today, 700+ mixed Common, Alpine and Pallid, and 100’s of hirundines mainly Barn Swallows with some Red-rumped and good numbers of House Martins. 2 Redshanks a Common Sandpiper and Whinchat also seemed new in.
Most of the usual species were on show well and a little drinking spot along the river attracted several Serins, White Wagtail and Kingfisher while a Nightingale sang in full view on overhead wires.
10th May – Jules had a booking today and kindly allowed me to tag along so it was an early start to be in the Alicante area by 9am to pick up Corinna, Geoff and Bob.
First stop was an area of dwarf pines for Rufous Bushchat. On arriving one could be heard and after a short search located singing from the top of a pine. During the next ½ hour or so 6 or 7 were seen singing from the pines and displaying on the ground, fantastic birds, and another of my favourites. Several Crested Larks, Sardinian Warblers and a Woodchat were also seen.
A short drive brought us to our next stop, the ‘Clot de Galvany’ where we did stay a while, in fact the birding was so good we stayed longer than we should have. The lagoon area gave us Little Stints, Kentish and Little Ringed Plover, Black-winged Stilts, Avocets, Common Sandpiper, Shelduck, Pochard and Red-crested Pochard, Coot, Moorhen, Whiskered Terns, Yellow-legged and Black-headed Gulls, Little owls, Crested Larks, Turtle Doves, Bee-eaters, Hoopoes, Southern Grey and Woodchat Shrikes, Great Reed and Sardinian Warblers, Green Woodpecker calling, Swifts, Swallows and House Martins.
Walking to the adjacent ‘Charco de Contacto’ Jules found a female Redstart – the only one of the trip, and at the small pool a pair of displaying Marbled Duck only a few yards away, 2 males and a female White-headed Duck, Shoveler, Pochard and Little Grebes. While I stayed in the hide to photograph the Marbled Ducks (one of my target birds of the trip) the rest of the group walked to another part of the pool, finding 6 male and 2 female White-headed Ducks, 2 Purple Gallinules, Red-rumped Swallow and a Carrion Crow.
Onward again, to the hills above Alcoy where there is a Griffon Vulture re-introduction Scheme in progress. A walk up the track brings you eyeball to eyeball with the Griffons sitting around on the rocks and taking off over your head. Truly wild Griffons join the wing-tagged birds here, with some of each present. What a spectacle to have these huge birds take off in front of you, fly just a few yards over your head then soar effortlessly in the thermals around the mountainside. Ravens put in an appearance, their ‘croaking’ heard before seeing them, Sparrowhawk and Kestrel out on the hunt and Rock and Cirl Bunting, Rock Sparrow, Black Redstart, Thekla Larks, Great, Coal and Crested Tits, Short-toed Treecreeper, Serin, Chaffinch and Crossbill all trying not to be their next meal. Green Woodpecker, Jay, Magpie, Mistle Thrush and Alpine Swift seemed fairly safe.
Shortly after leaving this memorable spot a superb Black-eared Wheatear popped up at the side of the road giving excellent views to all.
Back to Alicante area again and the ‘Santa Pola’ Salinas, only a quick stop but Great White Egret, Little Egrets, numerous Greater Flamingos, Common and Little Terns, Slender-billed and Yellow-legged Gulls, Great Crested Grebes, Turnstone, Little Ringed and Kentish Plovers, Black-winged Stilts, Avocets, Yellow Wagtails and 2 more Marbled Duck were added to the ever-growing list for the day.
A couple of short stops (we were running a bit late now, so many good being seen) gave us Roller, Montagues’ Harrier and Cattle Egrets.
It was now time to move into the hills above Crevillente for our evening meal at 6.30 and more importantly, Bonellis’ Eagles. The welcome we received from Jane and Colin, who run the ‘Finca Bonellis’ Eagle’, was unbelievable, we were greeted like long-lost friends and immediately felt relaxed in their company. A cold beer was also waiting - I don’t think it touched the sides going down.
Almost immediately a male Bonellis’ was in the air and a mad dash to get scopes and cameras out of the car ensued, we needn’t have hurried, after a few minutes it settled on a rock a short distance away from its’ nest containing a well grown youngster, now past the ‘downy’ stage and looking very smart and colourful indeed. After fantastic views of the male and the eaglet the female Bonellis’ came into view and flew to the nest with food, then she was in the air again and settled on the cliff-face not far from the male allowing us to make direct comparisons between them – more than we had ever hoped for. We could even see the eye colour and the difference in breast markings.
Amidst all the excitement of the Bonellis’ we also managed to see 2 male Blue Rock Thrushes, Bee-eaters, Red-legged Partridges, Alpine and Common Swifts, Crag Martins, Little Owls and a Scops Owl calling.
It was now time for our meal and we were treated to some excellent home-made soup, (mine tasted all the better for me dropping the pepper grinder into it – raising hoots of laughter from the others of course), followed by tender pork chops and chips, great, beats cheese sandwiches any day. Strawberries and ice cream for dessert and a few bottles of red wine rapidly disappeared. So suitably fed and watered and quite prepared to sit in the evening sun with the peace and quiet of the beautiful scenery all around us we dragged ourselves out of the comfy chairs and set off for again, for Eagle Owl, our final target of the day.
As dusk was falling, with 2 Black Wheatears, calling Green Woodpecker and Little Owl under our belts Jules picked up an Eagle Owl flying in to settle on a large rock giving us excellent views over the next 10 minutes or so. While watching the owl a Red-necked Nightjar started calling in the distance and then one appeared in flight from the small canyon we had been watching. As often happens when things go your way this was followed by another one flying up from the road in front of us as we were leaving and seen by all in the car headlights.
What an end to a truly fantastic days’ birding – the quantity and especially the quality of birds seen today made it one of those days I’ll always remember, and entirely due to all the hard work and exploration of various areas put in by Jules over the last couple of years.
But the day is not over yet, after dropping off Corinne, Bob and Geoff back in Alicante Jules had made arrangements for us to return to ‘Finca Bonellis’ Eagle’ for the night and have a look around the area and a couple of sites at Alicante tomorrow. So we ended this memorable day sitting on the patio with Jane and Colin, drinking red wine and getting to know each other better, all in the cool of late evening, stars and moon shining above, peaceful surroundings, just insects and a Scops Owl calling in the background – perfection
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Footnote…anyone wishing to stay at ‘Finca Bonellis’ Eagle’ can do so by contacting Jules. If you enjoy good company, good food, magnificent scenery and a relaxing atmosphere treat yourself to a few days here, have a swim in the pool a few beers and relax. You will be exceptionally well looked after by Jane and Colin.
Pickups can be arranged from Alicante Airport with them so you don’t even need a car. I’m certainly going back. Sorry if this sounds like an advert but it really is a unique place and Jane and Colin are such friendly people I just felt I had to share it.