Returned last Sunday from a week on Tobago. It was one of those places on our "wannago" list and when we seen a very good offer on the web, it was booked and we were soon away. The downside is that the flights are from Gatwick and we live in the beautiful north. The flight was a 9 hour haul, add to that though it took an hour to get through customs and immigration.
The heat hits one as soon as you step out the plane door. The daytime temps hit a blistering mid 30s which cooled to 27/28 in the night. But softened by a lovely tropical breeze. We stayed at the Island Suites Hotel in the south which was basic but clean, although not on a beach was centrally located for the birding sites in the south. If we went again we would go for a beachside hotel. We found the people to be very friendly and relaxed, from the people we talked to, Dwight Yorke must have hundreds of cousins!!. The drink was reasonable in price but eating out can be as expensive as here. We did not hire a rental car but used taxis when not with the guide Newton George. The taxis can also be dear, my advice is even if only for a few days get a hire car. Frankies tours near Turtle Beach Hotel gives good rate of less than £30 all inclusive. On another note, if you want to see Turtles egg laying when you see Frankie give him your name, hotel, room number and phone. If a Turtle appears they will phone and collect you for a fee, do not know how much. We found out about this on our last day.
As for activities outside of birding, the seas and beaches are beautiful and clean. The seas on the Atlantic side are rougher than the Carib side and some not safe for swimming. Plenty of opportunities though with glass bottom boats to see the coral reefs, for snorkelling and if you wish scuba.
As our main interst was birding, we prebooked Newton Grange for his three trips which consist of:-
Rainforest tour.
Lowland wetlands tour.
Little Tobago Island.
Without his help it would have been extremely difficult to get all the birds especially the Rainforest species. He was an excellent guide and well worth the cost. He also provided transport, collected one and returned you to your hotel. It was so hot we found that virtually we just birded in the morning. Although we missed out unluckily on a few key birds, Mangrove Cuckoo and the two Black Hawks we managed a decent 93 species, a list not padded out with American waders or warblers which were way up north. Our list was therefore very much Tobagon residents and breeders.
Rainforest Tour. We looked in at Gilpin Trace but Newton knows of other tracks for the birds. Without his knowledge and expertise we would not have connected with many of the birds. IMO he is a necessity for this part.
Lowland wetlands tour.
Buccoo ponds is on Roberts Street (not Robert Street) at the back of Canaan. The birds here consist of herons, egrets, anhingas, duck, jacanas and other small birds. None of the birds here present ID problems but be there before 7.30 am as the birds disappear into the mangroves. The whole area is good to explore along the roads round the ponds.
Hilton Hotel. This area consists of small lakes and a mangrove boardwalk and is the preferred area for the cuckoo. Good area for the Black bellied Whistling Duck if not seen above. There is a security gate at the entrance but there should not be any problems if you explain the purpose of your visit. The entrance is located on the Scarborough - Crown Point Road. Plenty of other small birds about, Kingbirds, Elainia.etc.
Turtle beach. Great spot for Pelicans and Roseate Tern which breed on a rock just off the Fort James point. Note that this area of Plymouth was the only one where we got hassle from locals. Plymouth is a place to be avoided nothing there at all. This beach can be agreat spot for close ups of Frigatebirds when the local fisherman are sorting out their catch.
Adventure farm. This is on Arnos Vale Road and is much better than Arnos Vale Hotel for Hummers and cheaper. Great setting also for other birds. Should say that Newton stated the Hummers leave in June/July.
Little Tobago Island. Sail from the Blue Waters Inn, crossing takes about 20 minutes. Watch out fot the Boobies, Noddys, Bridled, Sooty and Roseate terns. In May still a few Red-billed Tropicbirds and Red-footed and Brown Boobies left. But in may the Noddys and other terns arrive. The Island can be very hot so take water. There are planty of the typical small birds here as well but nothing that you should have already seen on the mainland. No problems here either with the ID of the birds.
Did not have the Ffrench book but took our Birds of Costa Rica and thumbnails from the gallery for the other birds to help in ID.
We had a great time and can recommend this location not only for a birding holiday but a holiday fullstop.
Hi Robert
I can echo your views on Tobago being a great place for a week's holiday, especially if you are with a non-birder who likes the beach. What I liked about the island was that it was very uncommercialised (apart from the ghastly bit round the airport), especially the north and Caribbean side of the island (there were about three people on the famous beach at Englishman's Bay when we were there). Knowing a bit about Dwight Yorke helps but if you can talk cricket then you can talk to any of the locals until the cows come home, just don't suggest that Ricky Ponting is better than Brian Lara even in jest, as it'll elicit the iciest silence imaginable.
Adventure Farm is a very nice place to stay, five species of hummer at the feeders, plenty of other birds in the grounds. Arnos Vale enjoys a great location, good birding in the grounds, great snorkelling just off shore, but is a bit like Fawlty Towers and has a third rate restaurant charging top prices.
If you go for longer than a week, then I'd recommend going over to Trinidad, which is even better for birds, and has a completely different atmopshere to Tobago.
I didn't take Ffrench's book either, but had Hilty's Venezuela book which is good but massive. I believe a new T&T guide is coming out this autumn, based on the Northern South America book.
E
Absolutely Edward, a great place. I did talk about cricket but as the Indies were getting a bit of a whipping the locals were not too chuffed. Should mention Adventure Farm is cheaper than Arnos vale ny a long way.
Newton does day trips to Trinidad visiting Asa Wright and Caroni Swamp for aboiut £200 pp, inc flights, transport and lunches plus guiding.