The Cloud Forest, Mindo, Ecuador, April 2007.
First of all, many thanks to those who advised me on where to go, field guides etc. Birdforum has been a valuable resource when planning this trip, and I hope my report will give others an idea of what to expect if they get the chance to visit somewhere like this. It was a fantastic few days for my friend and I, and a memorable break in our 3 month whistle stop tour of Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia and Argentina, of which we are still very much in the midst of. The trip itself is not purely birding based: we are post grads at something of a crossroads, keen to experience a bit of everything that South America has to offer. After a bit of research, soul searching and the usual “I need to get out of heres” the flights were booked and we had arrived at Heathrow early one morning. Footy fans take note- we sat next to Marc Bright on the plane! Some great Gazza based stories, more suitabel for ruffled feathers I feel.
Of possible interest, the altitude. We found this to be of no problem, a little short of breath during the first 24 hours but we soon acclimatised.
We had no room for the excellent but large field guide that exists for Ecuador, but this proved to be no problem as our guide Julia had her own, and was constantly pulling it out of her bag and highlighting new species for us!
On arriving in Quito we booked up 2 nights and 3 days with Pachijal reserve. It turned out to be an inspired choice, considering it was decided pretty much on a whim in week one. We were indebted to the staff at Pachijal reserve from the very beginning, here is their website for reference purposes-
http://www.pachijalreserve.com
Every night we compiled a list of species seen, and what follows are simply the highlights. We saw so many new species each day I have found it impossible to remember the order in which they were seen. I will add the complete species list at the end.
Day 1.
Jaime, our host, and our guide Julia picked us up from our hotel in Quito early one morning, and we were soon out of the city and into the hills, birding our way to our home for the next 2 nights, Pachijal lodge.
Not far from Quito we began on the slopes of Pichincha Vulcan. Here the highlights were Sword Billed Hummingbird, Great Sapphire Winged Hummingbird and some colourful Tanager flocks comprising the likes of Flame Faced, Black Capped and Blue Winged. As the cloud came down, our views were restricted and our guide Julia really came into her own, calling out the names of species we were unable to see. 2 Turqouise Jays were eventually located to our delight. One species we missed out on was the Endemic Black Breasted Puffleg. Although my Spanish is limited, I understood from a park warden that there had been no sign of any individuals today. One of very few disappointments during our 3 days!
After a great start, we left the heights of the mountain and descended to just under 2000m above sea level. The microclimate of the cloudforest left behind for the time being, the heat turned up somewhat and a new set of birds to search for. The highlight was Masked Trogon, well concealed deep in a bush. We saw more of these birds, males and females, near our lodge. Further up the track we came across our first Plate Billed Mountain Toucan- a truly enigmatic species, and a real crowd pleaser, feeding on some large nuts not far from us.
Moving further along the eco trail, we again began to gain height, moving back into cloud forest. Sometimes all that would accompany us was the silence, but it was never long until some movement in the trees ahead signalled the chance of new birds. As another mixed flock of flycatchers and Tanagers fed in the trees above us, closer examination revealed more new birds- Toucan Barbet, Brown Inca, a pair of Glossy Black Thrush and a single Striped Treehunter. And finally, a bird I was able to spot and ID before our guide! Thanks to much recent coverage in the birding press, a Canada Warbler was observed mingling with a small group of Supercillied Hemispingus.
The route to our lodge took us through the small town of Mindo; a flock of Smooth Billed Ani, spooked by our jeep, got up and flew away into a neighbouring field. Torrent Tyrannulet was also added.
Our lodge was perfection- in the middle of nowhere, and we were the only visitors! Sitting on the balcony with a beer watching Hummingbirds zip to and fro is something I wont be forgetting in a hurry.
Having heard Andean and Sickle Winged Guan call for most of the afternoon, we were surprised not to have caught up with one in the flesh. A shout from our guide quickly proved today was our lucky day- Guan in the front garden! Sickle Winged Guan to be precise, carefully treading the branches of a tree and looking very out of place!
After a smashing dinner, we popped into the town itself. The day ended on a high, for perched next to a street lamp, presumably moth catching, was a tremendous Black and White Owl. A contender for bird of the trip so far, no doubt sitting in one of its favourite spots.
We went to bed listening to frogs and all sorts, and I had a feeling the best was yet to come.
Day 2
Our alarm woke us at 4.30am, and we went into autopilot mode, grabbing the necessities and in the jeep before we knew it. We arrived at La Paz reserve after about 20 minutes, and on meeting the owners of the land, 2 brothers, we set out on foot in the dark. It was quiet, eerie almost, until one sound penetrated the breaking dawn. Giant Antpitta, we were informed. However, our first stop was a Cock of the Rock lek site, and to our delight 4 males attended, displaying for around 25 minutes in a fashion akin to no other. The last one departed in what was now broad daylight, a red flash seen climbing a slope across a river.
We left in awe, not knowing what to expect next. The 2 brothers split up, presumably searching for our next targets. It didn’t take them long to hit gold. A call from one to the other; Julia beckoned us to follow. On rounding a corner, a Giant Antpitta sat on the track, less than 10 metres away. Having digested this (!) the brothers asked us to take a seat in a small hide just behind. We sat, and the brothers laid out a trail of worms, which our bird, Maria, quickly latched onto and fed in front of us, within touching distance. A quite unreal experience. I had hoped for a glimpse of an Antpitta disappearing into foliage, but this was a bit special.
Another shout from one of the brothers- he had slipped away whilst we had watched Maria, and had located 2 Yellow Breasted Antpittas! Again, these were birds the owners knew well, and they too responded to the calls of the brothers and crept out of their forest floor home for the chance of worms. Their names: John and Willy!
Epic stuff, some scenes that will live long in the memory. We left the Antpittas in peace, and continued our path through the forest. It was not long until our guides stopped in their tracks again, for a family of Dark Backed Wood Rails had been located! 2 adults and 3 young were coaxed down to the track, again with worms, and fed carefully I front of us.
Time had gotten on, and breakfast was had late. We ate some fantastic fruits and meat in the company of 2 Swallow Tailed Kites and a Roadside Hawk, quartering the open ground next to our food stop. On thanking our cook, we climbed a track into an open area of land. Another treat sat perched at the top of a tree- Scaled Fruiteater, a cotinga species! It actually looked like a piece of fruit, I doubt I would have picked it out had it not been for a guide. Other new birds that day included Golden Headed Quetzal, Smokey Brown Woodpecker, Andean Emerald, Pacific Hornereo and White Winged Brush Finch.
Day 3.
Today was spent walking the trails around our lodge, picking up a few species we had missed at La Paz and around. We arose early again, the sun warming us as it crept through the clouds. Bronze Winged Parrots left their roost sites, and a Giant Antpitta called in the distance, possibly Maria keen for some breakfast. After breakfast, our chef took us to a site off the trail where had had recently encountered a roost of Crested Owls. After much searching and sweating, we called off the search. The owls would have to wait for another trip. Still, we managed good views of Choco Toucan in flight, a group of Pale Mandibled Aracari, a single Strong Billed Woodcreeper. Closer to the lodge, we had Golden Olive Woodpecker and a single Crimson Rumped Toucanet from our bedroom window.
We were driven back to our hostel and the hustle and bustle of Quito´s new town that afternoon. A smashing few days, a simple write up such as this can´t really do it justice. If anyone has any questions about individual species, ill be glad to advise where possible. The owner of the Lodge, Renato, is most helpful and can be contacted by email via the website.
Here is a complete species list, not one for the purist I warn you- without a field guide taxonomic order will have to wait until I get home! Reading this lot again makes missing out on all those Purple Herons at Minsmere a bit more bareable.
Turkey Vulture
Black Vulture
Swallow Tailed Kite
Double Toothed Kite
Roadside Hawk
American Kestrel
Sickle Winged Guan
Dark Backed Wood Rail
Pale Vented Pigeon
Scaly Ground Dove
White Tipped Dove
Maroon Tailed Parakeet
Bronze Winged Parrot
Black And White Owl
Smooth Billed Ani
Shining Sunbeam
Great Sapphirewinged
Sword Billed Hummingbird
Long Tailed Trainbearer
Collared Inca
Buffwing Starfront
Sapphire Vented Puffleg
Tyrian Metaltail
Rainbow Bearded Thornbill
Tawny Bellied Hermit
Purple Bibbed Whitetip
Speckled Hummingbird
Booted Racket Tail
Purple Throated Woodstar
Fawn Breasted Brilliant
Rufous Tailed Hummingbird
Andean Emerald
Brown Inca
Violet Tailed Sylph
Buff Tailed Coronet
Velvet Purple Coronet
Masked Trogon
Golden Headed Quetzal
Turqouise Jay
Toucan Barbet
Plate Billed Mountain Toucan
Pale Mandibled Aracari
Crimson Rumped Toucanet
Choco Toucan
Golden Olive Woodpecker
Smokey Brown Woodpecker
Strong Billed Woodcreeper
Tyrannid Woodcreeper
Mountain Woodcreeper
Red Faced Spinetail
White Browed Spinetail
Scaly Throated Foilage Gleaner
Lineated Foilage Gleaner
Buff Fronted Foilage Gleaner
Pacific Hornereo
Streak Capped Treehunter
Striped Treehunter
Giant Antpitta
Yellow Breasted Antpitta
Ornate Flycatcher
Torrent Tyrannulet
White Banded Tyrannulet
White Tailed Tyrannulet
Smokey Bush Tyrant
Smoke Coloured Pewee
Western Wood Pewee
Black Phoebee
House Wren
Streaked Tuftcheek
Olive Striped Flycatcher
Dusky Capped Flycatcher
Golden Crowned Flycatcher
Cinammon Flycatcher
Tropical Kingbird
Scaly Fruiteater
Andean Cock Of The Rock
Great Thrush
Glossy Black Thrush
Blue and White Swallow
Brown Bellied Swallow
White Collared Swift
Blackburnian Warbler
Slate Throated Whitestart
Tropical Parula
Spectacled Redstart
Blue Backed Conebill
Three Striped Warbler
Canada Warbler
Orange Bellied Euphoria
Masked Flower Piercer
Glossy Flower Piercer
Scarlet Bellied Mountain Tanager
Fawn Breasted Tanager
Golden Tanager
Flame Faced Tanager
Golden Naped Tanager
Beryl Spangled Tanager
Black Capped Tanager
Blue Winged Mountain Tanager
Hooded Mountain Tanager
Plushcap
Dusky Bush Tanager
Blue Grey Tanager
Yellow Bellied Seed Eater
White Winged Brush Finch
Supercillied Heminspingus
Rufous Naped Brush Finch
Tri Coloured Grosfinch
Rufous Collared Sparrow
Thanks for reading.
Jim Bradley.
Nice one, Jim. I see you got the Dark-backed Wood-Quail at Angel Paz's, they didn't show when I was there, but I did see the antpittas - there's now a third Yellow-breasted, a juvenile they've named 'Richard'.
Jim,
Nice report and thanks for posting. Your's and VB's recent reports continue to add to the resource base here for trip planning for Ecuador.