Newcastle RSPB Local Group Tour to Northern Ireland 27th May- 2nd June 2007
Day One
Well everyone turned up on time, in fact I felt sure some had camped out overnight so as not to miss the coach. A quick count of heads on the back of coach seats came to thirty-one as expected so we left Newcastle upon Tyne at 8.45 am on a rather dreary day. It wasn’t long until we were into Dumfries and Galloway and everyone was admiring the coastal scenery and counting the Common Buzzards. Thoughts did come into mind about a future group tour of this very beautiful area of South West Scotland. Swallows, Swifts and House Martins were seen in number during the coach journey. After a short break and a panic by staff as we all wandered into a cafe for coffee, we were quickly on our way to the ferry terminal at Stranraer. The ferry was soon off for the extremely smooth ninety minute crossing to Belfast. The sea was calm and weather improving as the keener members started our trip bird in ernest. Seen through rather grimy windows were Cormorants, Shags, Eider Duck, Black Headed Gulls, Herring Gulls, Lesser Black Backed Gulls, Sandwich Tern, Common Tern numerous Black Guillemots, which had been a lifer for me only this year on my visit to Mull, and a star bird for some including myself, Manx Shearwaters. The Shearwaters, which were seen in two small flocks shearing the water, were a lifer for me and some other members. A very good start to the trip, which was a first to Northern Ireland for the vast majority of members. We were soon approaching Belfast Lough and admiring views of the Mountains of Mourne through Irish mist.
Well we were soon at the Chimney Corner Hotel on Antrim Road and checking into our rooms. Some help arrived eventually, if a little too late for most who had struggled upstairs and along very long corridors with luggage. Time for a rest before it was down to dinner and I have to say the food was very good if at times a little slow in arriving! By the end of the week some of us agreed that the service had been amusing and had helped us socialise at dinner as we had plenty of time to chat. I’m not sure if everyone in the group found it amusing, but there you are no one said life was perfect! Some of us chose to walk after dinner and I had hopes of Owls but it wasn’t to be. Kestrels were still hunting and calling however and I suspected they had a family to feed and the song of Song Thrushes was constant. I did note that the area seemed rich in Song Thrushes. Couldn’t help wondering if they have fared better in Northern Ireland than across the Irish Sea? Then it was off to bed and for those on the front of the hotel the chance was available to listen to noisy traffic for several hours. I can vouch for that! I believe at least one member resorted to tissue paper in the ears. I am trying to imagine what she looked like. Best not!
Day Two
I had planned the tour to take in as much of the varying habitats of Northern Ireland as possible, in such a short time and to offer a glimpse of other natural history although the focus was always going to be bird watching. Today we were heading for County Fermanagh and the Marble Arch Caves in an area of limestone and peat bogs which lie within what is a European Geopark. My plan was that the stronger walkers would attempt the walk up Cuilcagh Mountain in search of highland birds whilst those less able walkers could visit the caves and try out the shorter walks in the varied and interesting area near to the caves. This I had felt would have been a good way to end our tour, but because of difficulties with dates of other visits it became the beginning. Well there is never a real problem in changing plans and this one was, as the stronger walkers, me included, were attracted by the chance to visit the cave complex. We were not to be disappointed by the caves and settled for shorter walks.
On route to Marble Arch Caves we of course drove through Counties Antrim, Tyrone and Fermanagh and the later part of the journey was indeed very picturesque. During the journey our first Hooded Crows of the week were seen and also numerous Common Buzzards and a Kestrel. Sadly, both a dead Badger and Fox lay on the roadside. On reaching the caves we broke into small groups each going separate ways. A few of us chose to walk down into the wooded reserve where we first of all heard then eventually spotted Willow Warblers, Blackcaps, Great Tit, Coal Tit and Blue Tit. A Chiffchaff was heard and in this area some members caught sight of Goldcrest. Pairs of Grey Wagtails and Pied Wagtails were soon spotted on the banks of the stream and then a pair of Dipper was seen visiting a huge nest, built on the far bank of the stream. On each visit to the nest youngsters could be heard calling for food. During the day I think almost all members heard the calls of a Cuckoo. I wished I had had more time to explore this area which I believe holds Otters and Pine Martins but we had to make back for our guided tour of the cave system. Seventeen of us were led around the caves. As we descended we reached the underground river where we were taken by boats further into the caves. Then there is quite a bit of walking to do, but well worth the effort as you pass various rock formations in the limestone. The highlight of this experience for me was the area of very still water which reflected the roof of the cave and the Stalactites. I can only describe the sight as if it were a golden city seen in a dream. It looked as though you could just walk onto it. Fascinating! If you ever visit Fermanagh don’t miss this! I don’t think anyone could have been disappointed with this tour. Nice centre too.
When we were back out into daylight again we were able to have our packed lunches before setting off on a walk. Rather a shorter walk than originally planned but a good one none the less. Butterflies seen included Small White, Orange Tip and Small Copper and a Cinnabar Moth was seen too. Not such a rare moth I suppose, but a first for me and a beauty. Not long into the walk I disturbed an Irish Hare which jumped up a few feet in front of me. Another first! The botanists in the group were kept entertained and I certainly remember the Early Spotted Orchids. We climbed to a reasonable height and had good views over a wide area including the Cuilcagh Mountains where I could’nt help feel there would be some exciting birding. Maybe next time! In any event birds found included Swifts, Swallows, Meadow Pipit, Skylark, Song Thrush, Blackbird, Wren, Garden Warbler and some excellent close views of Ravens. Jays were seen by some members. It had been a very good day and a good start to the holiday. We returned via Enniskillen and the River Erne and more Common Buzzards!
Confusion at dinner tonight. There seemed to have been a mix up in numbers and the chicken had come out on top! Yours truly, who had taken the orders on the coach, managed to keep his head down until all was sorted before disappearing for an evening walk. A couple of glasses of red wine had ensured all was well with the world and we had missed the showers today too!
I will probably do this report in 3 parts followed by a birdlist and have it completed by Sunday evening.