24 September to October 10th 2006.
Although we had booked a game safari, we nevertheless hoped that we would also be able to do some birding. This proved to be the case and along with fellow birders, Jack Fairhead, Adrian George and Dave Parish, we started from the moment we had settled into our first hotel – The Jacaranda in Nairobi.
25th September 2006 Jacaranda Hotel Nairobi
From our bedroom window we were able to see Common Bulbul, Pied Crow, Black Kite and Ring-necked Dove
26th September. Morning walk around hotel
Early morning saw Jack,David and myself, walking around the hotel and adding several more birds to our list Olive Thrush, Speckled Mousebird, Baglafecht Weaver, Black Kite, Stripe-breasted (Reichard’s) Seed-eater and flying over Rock Martins, Sacred Ibis.
Journey to Lake Nakuru
Following breakfast we boarded our safari vans for the drive to Lake Nakuru via the Great Rift Valley. Although not stopping for some time we were able to identify White Stork, Cape Rook, Superb Starling and Hadada Ibis, whilst later at our first stop we had African Hoopoe, Wattled Starling and House Sparrow.
Lake Nakuru Lodge
Approaching the Lodge we stopped to see some Colubus monkeys in the trees by the side of the road and several baboons, plus Impala and distant views of Rhinos and Cape Buffalo.
Having settled in to our bungalow, a walk around the grounds revealed Speckled Pigeon, Mourning Dove, Red-eyed Dove, Scarlet-chested Sunbird, Common Fiscal, Chinspot Batis, African Black Swift and several other Hirundines flying over.
In the waterhole just outside the perimeter fence were several Cattle Egrets and two Blacksmith Lapwings.
After a short break for lunch and rest (we needed it after the ride over Kenyan “roads”) we climbed into the safari vans for our first Game drive. Making our way towards the lake we saw Giraffe, Cape Buffalo and Thompson’s Gazelle. In the trees we found Augur Buzzard, Fork-tailed Drongo, African Crowned Eagle, Lilac-breasted Roller, Hadada Ibis, Common Fiscal, Greater Blue-eared Starling, Superb Starlingand African White-headed Vulture.
Around the lake were thousands of Flamingoes, too distant to be certain whether they were Greater or Lesser and Cattle Egrets.
Continuing inland we came across a sandy bank where severalRed-throated Bee-eaters were exploring holes in the bank. Also on the bank were several Red-cheeked Cordon-bleu and a Crowned Lapwing. On our way back to the lodge we saw a large flock of Hadada Ibis, fly into trees in front of us whilst we were watched by a wise old Baboon who was completely unperturbed by our presence. Further on we had sightings of Helmeted Guineafowl, Cattle Egrets , Red-winged Lark and African Golden Oriole.
September 27th Lake Nakuru MorningGame Drive
Our early morning game Drive was centred on Lake Nakuru for the water birds. Along the track we passed Water Buck, Gazelle and Warthog.
The lake, when we reached it was, was alive with Flamingos, mainly Lesser, giving it a beautiful pink colour.
But apart from the flamingos, there were dozens of different species of waterbirds. Cattle, Little and Great White Egrets were in abundance, accompanied by African Great White and one or two juvenile Pink-backed Pelicans. A single Avocet was seen and we also had a distant view of a Black-headed Heron.
White-winged Black Terns were constantly flying by as were Grey-headed Gulls. Several Hadada Ibis and also a Sacred Ibis, showed themselves, whilst Egyptian Geese and a solitary Pied Kingfisher were seen on the far bank. Yellow-billed and Marabou Storks were wading around amongst the flamingos as were the African Spoonbills. Blacksmith Lapwing, Ringed Plover, Ruff, Wood Sandpiper, Little Stint were noticed, whilst Black-winged Stilts, Hottentot Teal and Whiskered Tern also showed themselves, but much to the dismay of the birders in the party our driver decided it was time to leave! A whole day could have been spent on the lake.
On the drive back to the lodge we saw Augur Buzzard, Pied Crow, Common Fiscal, Black Kite, Greater Blue-eared and Superb Starling and over the lodge Rock Martin and Little Swift.
Lake Nakuru Lodge
A walk around the lodge compound revealed Rufous Sparrow, Grey-headed Sparrow, White-eyed Slaty Flycatcher, Greater Honeyguide, African Pied Wagtail and African Hoopoe whilst flying overhead were Little Swift, Nyanza Swift and Red-rumped Swallows.
Evening Game Drive
Once again our driver headed off towards the lake but down a different track. Along the way we saw Fork-tailed Drongo, Tawny Eagle, Common Fiscal and Northern Ant-eater Chat, whilst at the lakeside a Cape Buffalo and Rhino were sharing a Red-billed Oxpecker. A Yellow Wagtail (beema) and Northern Wheatear were added to our list. Leaving the lakeside we went looking for Leopard but were unsuccessful. However we were rewarded with views of Greater Flamingo, Coqui Francolin, Helmeted Guineafowl, Sand Martin and Crowned Lapwing.
September 28th Journey to Lake Baringo Lodge.
We passed Grey-crowned Cranes, Ostrich, Silverbird and Chestnut-banded Plover. Stopping for a comfort break at Lake Borogia Hotel we found White-browed Sparrow Weaver, Black-headed Oriole and soaring overhead Marabou Stork.
Moving on to Lake Borogia to see the geysers and hot springs, we were rewarded with several more birds to add to our ever growing list. On the lake itself were Flamingos plus Slender-billed Gull, Spur-winged Plover, Egyptian Geese and Little Stint. Perched in a tree close to the water was an African Fish Eagle, whilst loud calling from a nearby bush led us to find Jackson’s Hornbill and White-browed Sparrow Weavers.
Lake Baringo Lodge Grounds
Immediately in front of our bungalow was a tree in which was an Eastern Violet-backed Sunbird, whilst a Bristle-crowned Starling was flying back and forth and bathing in the irrigation spray. In the grounds themselves we added Red-billed Hornbill and Grey-headed Kingfisher.
Lake Baringo Bird Walk
We booked to take a bird walk with the resident ornithologist, Simon. This proved to be one of the highlights. In the tall trees at the entrance to the lodge we found a Rufous Tchagra, White-browed Coucal and Laughing Dove whilst further into the walk we saw d’Arnaud’s Barbet, Spotted Morning Thrush, White-headed Buffalo-weaver, Wattled Starling, Golden-back Weaver, Black and White Cuckoo, Beautiful Sunbird, Red-faced Crombec, Red-fronted Barbet, Nubian Woodpecker, Garden Bulbul, Grey-backed Camaroptera, Lesser Honeyguide, Northern Masked Weaver, White-crowned Shrike and Brown Babbler.
September 29th Early Morning Walk
Starting out at approximately 6.15am we hoped to see many more birds and we were not disappointed! On the lawn in front of the lodge we recorded Brown Babbler, Red-fronted Barbet, Garden Bulbul, Spotted Morning Thrush, Speckled Mousebird, White-browed Sparrow Weaver, Beautiful Sunbird, African Fish Eagle, Laughing Dove, Mourning Dove and Northern Masked Weaver. Walking on to the edge of the lake we saw a Goliath Heron, Greenshank, Glossy Ibis, Little Stint, Yellow-billed Stork, Gull-billed Tern whilst in the bush we saw Little Bee-eaters, White-browed Coucal, Fork-tailed Drongo, Red-billed Firefinch, Common Fiscal, Paradise Flycatcher, Grey-headed Kingfisher, Spur-winged Plover, Plain-backed Pipit, Yellow Wagtail, Yellow-bellied Waxbill and Red-billed Quelea. Flying over were Namaqua Doves and an Ethiopian Swallow.
Boat ride on Lake Baringo.
It was with some trepidation that we boarded our boat for the trip on the lake. Earlier on our walk we had seen several quite large crocodiles, but we were reassured when our boatman stepped into the water to pull the boat away from the jetty! A Goliath Heron was soon spotted trying to swallow an enormous head of a catfish, but finding it just beyond its capabilities. A Yellow-billed Stork was fishing and gratefully accepted our boatman’s offer of a fish. Our attention was drawn to what was thought to be a Painted Snipe, but which on checking was an African Snipe. Along the lake’s edge we saw the local women doing their washing and an old man taking a bath in the nude! Additionally, sharing the bank was a Common Sandpiper, Little Egret, Glossy Ibis, Grey Heron, Pink-backed Pelican, and a Great White Pelican. In some dead trees in the lake we had an obliging Pied Kingfisher which posed for photographs! However probably the most interesting bird was the Hamerkop walking along the bank whilst in the trees we spotted two Little Bee-eaters. Returning back to our moorings, avoiding the Hippos, we were disappointed that the Fish Eagle had already been fed by the other boat so was not interested in our fish offering!
September 30th Lake Naivasha Evening Bird Walk.
After a fairly long journey from Baringo to Lake Naivasha the afternoon was spent in recovery. That evening we had booked a bird walk with the ornithologist but as it happened the assistant manager of the hotel took over and proved to be very knowledgeable. Starting at the entrance to the hotel we did a complete tour of the grounds. In the trees we saw Garden Bulbul, Grey Woodpecker, Grey-backed Fiscal, Laughing Dove, Red-eyed Dove, Ring-necked Dove, Superb Starling, Tropical Boubou, Variable Sunbird, White-bellied Tit, White-browed Robin-chat and Winding Cisticola. He pointed out to us a thrush that was very similar to the Olive Thrush but which he informed us was an African Thrush and it had only just been recognized as being in the area after it had bred at the lodge.
By the edge of the lake was a Three-banded Plover along with Common Sandpipers, Glossy ibis, Great Cormorant, Long-tailed Cormorant, Ruff, Sacred Ibis, Hottentot Teal and flying over African Marsh Harrier, Barn Swallow, Grey-headed Gull, Sand Martin and Whiskered Tern. Returning to the lodge an African Black-headed Oriole was in a tree, African Citril Finch, Brimstone Canary, Pied Kingfisher, Malachite Kingfisher also showed. An Arrow-marked Babbler, Baglafecht Weaver, Black Cuckooshrike and Fork-tailed Drongo rounded off a very interesting evening.
October 1st Lake Naivasha Early Morning Walk
Once again our early morning start paid dividends as we added Yellow-billed Duck, Grassland Pipit to our list plus the usual water birds and a Malachite Kingfisher. Later that day we had a very good view of a Long-crested Eagle perched in a tree.
October 1st. Journey to Keekorok Lodge
The journey to Keekorok was not an easy one and was most uncomfortable. Although there were some areas of tarmac for 90% of the way we were on rough tracks and in places had to detour through the bush because the track had been washed away in the rainy season! Nevertheless we were rewarded with sightings of Black-shouldered Kite, Southern Ground-hornbill, Grassland Pipit, Black-bellied Bustard, Little Bee-eaters and a Tawny Eagle. Needless to say there was no more birding that day as we needed to recover from the journey.
October 2nd. Balloon Flight from Keekorok Lodge.
Early morning found us taking a quick snatch at coffee before leaving for our Balloon Flight which was due to take off at 6.30am. Preparations were already underway when we arrived and we watched fascinated as the balloon was gradually inflated. After being instructed in safety procedures by the pilot we all climbed aboard and with a burst from the burners we were soon airborne. Maintaining a fairly low height we flew over the bush looking down on Hyena, Lion, Antelope, Zebra and Giraffe. Not many birds could be identified. After about an hour we were ready to land but the first choice was abandoned when a lion was seen on the path. Continuing further a spot was eventually identified and we made a bumpy landing with the basket on its side and passengers hanging on like grim death. After we got out we were taken for a champagne breakfast al fresco and it was whilst eating that we had good views of White-headed Vultures and also a Bateleur. Returning to the lodge we were fortunate that our driver spotted a Secretarybird and then, seeing vultures circling over the bush, he made his way towards them and found a recently killed wildebeast, a lioness and two younger lions that had obviously had their fill. A few yards away some Hooded Vultures had managed to steal part of the kill and were squabbling over who got the most! The drive was rounded off with a Lilac-breasted Roller, Northern Wheatear and Marabou Storks.
Grounds Keekorok Lodge
Our bungalow looked out on to the lawn at the lodge and many birds were seen here and also in the trees opposite. One of the most colourful birds was the Purple Grenadier which was a constant visitor. Also present were Grey-backed Camaroptera, Rufous Chatterer, White-browed Robin-chat, Nubian Woodpecker and Hildebrandt’s Starling. A walk to the water hole produced Black Crake, an immature Yellow-billed Stork, Black-headed Heron, Ringed Plover, Wood Sandpiper and Egyptian Goose, whilst in the bushes surrounding the walkway we saw White-browed Coucal, White-bellied Go-away Bird, Blue-naped Mousebird, Grey-capped Warbler, Paradise Flycatcher and Croaking Cisticola. Overhead were White-headed Saw-wings.
Evening Game Drive
Before embarking in the safari vehicles we watched Horus Swifts flying around. On the drive itself we found another bunch of Cheetahs, got stuck in a ditch, but also added Southern Ground-hornbill, Wattled Starling ,Crested Lapwing, Ostrich, Northern Wheatear and male and female Yellow-throated Sandgrouse.
October 4th Tiwi Beach Hotel. Early Morning Walk
Once again an early start to the day paid dividends as we were able to see many waders with the tide being out. Dunlin, Great White Egret, Greenshank, Lesser Black-backed Gull, Sooty Gull, Grey Heron, Pied Kingfisher, Pink-backed Pelican, Ringed Plover, Sanderling, Common Sandpiper, Greater and Lesser Sandplovers, Gull-billed Tern, Turnstone, Whimbrel, Pied Wagtail were all present as was a Shikra in trees opposite. Walking to the river estuary we spotted Water Thick-knees, Woolly-necked Stork and wandering back through the gardens Garden Bulbul, Red-cheeked Cordon-bleu, House Crow, Golden Palm Weaver and House Sparrow.
October 5th Early Morning walk.
All the previous day’s birds were seen but in addition, Temmink’s Stint and Curlew Sandpiper.
Mombassa Haller Park
An optional day trip took us to an animal rescue center, Haller Park. Apart from the collection of animals we also found new birds – African Golden Weaver, a juvenile Black-headed Night Heron, Eastern Chanting-goshawk, Red-billed Buffalo-weaver along with Black-headed Weaver, Grey-crowned Crane and Sacred Ibis.
October 6th Tiwi Beach Hotel Grounds.
By now we were beginning to wind down and so took more advantage of the hotel amenities – pool, gym etc. However,Black Kite, House Crow, Little Swift, White-rumped Swift, African Palm Swift were continually flying over and in the bushes were Golden Palm Weavers.
October 9th Hotel grounds.
We added a final bird to our list – a female Amethyst Sunbird.
Not only had we had a memorable safari experience with many animals, we had not been disappointed with the birding. In all we had seen 180 different species of which 135 were “lifers”.
Birds seen
African Black-headed Oriole* African Citril Finch* African Fish Eagle* African Golden Oriole* African Golden Weaver*
African Hoopoe* African Marsh Harrier* African Palm Swift* African Paradise Flycatcher* African Pied Wagtail* African pipit*
African Snipe* African Spoonbill* African Swift* African Thrush* Amethyst Sunbird* Arrow-marked Babbler* Augur Buzzard*
Baglafecht Weaver* Barn Swallow Bateleur* Beautiful Sunbird* Black Crake* Black Cuckooshrike* Black Kite
Black-bellied Bustard* Black-headed Heron* Black-headed Weaver* Black-shouldered Kite Black-winged Stilt Blacksmith Lapwing*
Brimstone Canary* Bristle-crowned Starling* Brown Babbler* Cape Crow* Cattle Egret Chestnut-banded Plover*
Chinspot Batis* Common Fiscal* Common Greenshank Common Ostrich* Common Ringed Plover Common Sandpiper
Coqui Francolin* Crowned Hawk-eagle* Curlew Sandpiper d'Arnaud's Barbet* Dunlin Eastern Chanting-Goshawk*
Egyptian Goose Ethiopian Swallow* Fork-tailed Drongo* Garden Bulbul* Glossy Ibis Golden Palm Weaver*
Goliath Heron* Great Cormorant Great White Egret Great White Pelican* Greater Blue-eared Starling* Greater Flamingo*
Greater Honeyguide* Greater Sand Plover Grey-crowned Crane* Grey Woodpecker* Grey-backed Camaroptera* Grey-backed Fiscal*
Grey-capped Warbler* Grey-headed Gull* Grey-headed Kingfisher* Grey-headed Sparrow* Gull-billed Tern Hadada Ibis*
Hamerkop* Helmeted Guineafowl* Hildebrandt's Starling* Hooded Vulture* Horus Swift* Hottentot Teal*
House Crow* House Sparrow Jackson's Hornbill* Kenya Rufous Sparrow* Kenya Violet-backed Sunbird* Lappet-faced Vulture*
Laughing Dove* Lesser Black-backed Gull Lesser Flamingo* Lesser Honeyguide* Lilac-breasted Roller* Little Bee-eater*
Little Egret Little Stint Little Swift* Long-crested Eagle* Long-tailed Cormorant* Malachite Kingfisher*
Marabou Stork* Marsh Sandpiper Lesser Sand Plover* Mourning Dove Namaqua Dove* Night Heron
Northern Anteater-Chat* Northern Masked Weaver* Northern Wheatear Nubian Woodpecker* Nyanza Swift* Olive Thrush*
Pied Avocet Pied Cuckoo* Pied Kingfisher Pink-backed Pelican* Plain-backed Pipit* Purple Grenadier*
Red-billed Buffalo-weaver* Red-billed Firefinch* Red-billed Hornbill* Red-billed Oxpecker* Red-billed Quelea*
Red-cheeked Cordonbleu* Red-eyed Dove* Red-faced Crombec* Red-fronted Barbet* Red-rumped Swallow Red-throated Bee-eater*
Red-winged Lark* Reichard's Seedeater* Ring-necked Dove* Rock Martin Ruddy Turnstone Ruff
Rufous Chatterer* Sacred Ibis Sand Martin Sanderling Scarlet-chested Sunbird* Secretarybird*
Shikra* Silverbird* Slender-billed Gull Sooty Gull* Southern Ground-hornbill* Speckled Pigeon*
Spotted Morning-thrush* Tawny Eagle* Temmink's Stint Three-banded plover* Tropical Boubou* Variable Sunbird*
Water Thick-knee* Wattled lapwing* Whimbrel Whiskered tern White Stork White-bellied Go-away Bird*
White-bellied Tit* White-browed Coucal* White-browed Robin-chat* White-browed Sparrow-Weaver* White-crowned Shrike*
White-eyed Slaty Flycatcher* White-headed Buffalo-Weaver* White-headed Sawwing* White-headed Vulture* White-rumped Swift*
White-winged Tern Winding Cisticola* Wood Sandpiper Woolly-necked Stork* Yellow Wagtail Yellow-bellied Waxbill*
Yellow-billed Duck* Yellow-billed Stork* Yellow-throated sandgrouse*
* = lifers
Images can be seen at http://pelecanus.tripod.com
Fabulous stuff, hope to get there someday!
Fantastic pics on the web site.
Regards
Mick Sway