My goal was to bring my life list from 234 up to 250, at the least!
Day 1 - March 16, 2006
Our driver arrived late (that's Guyanese time!), and after loading our bags into the Land Rover we set off. After several stops in Georgetown, we finally got going. Passing through Linden and crossing the Demerara River, we got onto the trail. Swallow-wings were abundant along the road, and the discovery of a roadside Red-rumped Cacique colony netted my first lifer. During a short stop at Demerara Timbers we saw several Swallow-tailed Kites and Giant Cowbirds. At the midway point, we stopped at a roadside snackette for lunch and then resumed our trip. We stopped at the sight of 2 dead Grey-winged Trumpeters on the road, but shortly after setting off again, we encountered a fairly large group of live ones. Lifer!
Before we reached the end of our trip, we stopped for a bush break (for lack of a better term) where we encountered Black Caracaras and Sulphury Flycatchers.
We soon arrived at the Essequibo River after a 8+ hr drive (longer than normal because of our frequent stops and a slower vehicle) and found a boat awaiting our arrival. The scenery was incredibly beautiful, with small rapids and falls to the left, and clumps of rocks dotting the clean water, which sure beats the muddy water along the coast!
We arrived at the Iwokrama Field Station after a short, refreshing boat ride. After dumping our bags in our cabins, we went out to explore the grounds. Bird activity was beginning to slow down for the day, but we were able to see Blue-headed Parrot, Red-and-green Macaw, and Lineated Woodpecker before the sun set.
Day 2 - March 17, 2006
Up before the sun, we birded around the field station until breakfast. Red-throated Caracaras on the other river bank identified themselves with their loud voices, but eventually crossed over and gave better views. A pair of Green Oropendolas crossed the river, and a lone Red-fan Parrot, looking like a hawk when in flight, flew up to a nearby tree. We spotted a pair of Red Howler Monkeys in a tall tree, and soon a trio of Black-tailed Tityras added to the excitement. Discovering the incredible usefulness of my uncle's spotting scope, we sighted a pair of Channel-billed Toucans in a distant tree across the river.
After breakfast several Green Aracaris moved along the edge of the clearing and 2 Black Caracaras were severely persecuted by the local mockingbirds and kingbirds.
We soon got in the boat and headed for Turtle Mountain. Along the way we saw Cocoi Heron, Swallow-tailed Kites, and a Little Blue Heron. On the rocks there were Black-collared Swallows along with Bank and White-winged Swallows.
Arriving at the mountain, a Lesser Seed-Finch sang nearby but remained unseen. As we hiked, we began to hear the incredible call of the Screaming Piha. It wasn't long before our guide located one; my first Screaming Piha. We encountered two small mixed-species flocks, but they passed too quickly for us to make any IDs. The only other bird we saw was a pair of Golden-headed Manakins. After a tough hike (especially for us coast-lubbers) we arrived at the summit. Down in the valley, Swallow-tailed Kites were soaring and several Red-throated Caracaras sat and screamed in the treetops. A flock of mainly White-collared Swifts provided another lifer before our descent. After lunch at the camp and short hike we got on the boat and headed back. On the way, a flyby Muscovy Duck was another lifer for my uncle.
Back at the station, I scoped a Pied Plover on a far-off shore, but not being satisfied with a distant view of this striking bird, we got a ride over to the sand bar, where, in addition to the Pied Plover, we saw Collared Plover, Large-billed Tern, and a pair of Black Skimmers.
Day 3 - March 18, 2006
Up with the howler monkeys, we transferred by boat to Kurupukari Crossing and got on a vehicle heading south to the Iwokrama Canopy Walkway. A White Hawk flashed across the road, but soon returned and perched by the roadside. Continuing on, we saw the first of several groups of Black Curassows on the road. Mammals seen included several Agoutis, looking like jacked-up rabbits on steroids, and a small anteater identified as a Tamandua.
Arriving at the walkway camp, we had a quick breakfast, met our new guide, and started on our trek towards the walkway. After ascending the 100+ steps up the mountainside, we entered the walkway. Initially disappointed at our late arrival, we settled in on one of the platforms and started birding.
A Purple Honeycreeper signalled the arrival of several other small tanagers. First came a Black-faced Dacnis and then a Red-legged Honeycreeper. A singing Slate-colored Grosbeak would have been a lifer, but escaped with little more than a glimpse. Two Painted Parakeets were exciting, followed closely by a single male Guianan Toucanet foraging beneath the walkway. Yellow-green Grosbeaks finally approached very closely, and a Bay-headed Tanager appeared briefly nearby. Things began to slow down a bit, and my life list was perched on 249! What would it be? It didn't take long. We soon spotted a King Vulture soaring overhead. What a great bird for 250!
We tracked down some small tanagers and eventually identified them as Spotted Tanagers.
Dominic, our guide, spotted a larger bird perched almost a mile away. We got the scope on it, and after some discussion, we identified it as a Double-toothed Kite. It had rusty-red underparts and a grey head. In the same scope view a Black-headed Parrot was also seen. Time was pressing, so we headed back to the camp. We got in the Land Cruiser, and with mounting excitement, headed south to Corkwood; the site of a Guianan Cock-of-the-Rock lek and nest. On the way we sighted a young Red Brocket Deer by the road.
The trail to the lek wasn't long, and soon we approached a series of huge boulders. The lek was empty, but our guide led us to the nearby nest, where we were elated to find a female Guianan Cock-of-the-Rock sitting on the nest. She was a neat bird, but we all soon turned our thoughts to the incredible male. Where was he? We stood off at a short distance, hoping he would soon come with food for the female. But he didn't. After standing and sweating for 20-30 minutes, we were beginning to get frustrated. My brother wandered off and sat down on a rock. After several minutes he cried out "I see it!". We hurried over as best as we could without scaring the female, and got onto it very quickly. He was a little ways down the slope, perched in a tree; a large orange-red bird, almost glowing with the intensity of his color. Stunning! He sat for about 1 minute before flying off, but we were all thrilled with the sighting.
On the trip back to the Field Station, a Sunbittern darted across the road, and at the crossing we finally identified a Greater Yellow-headed Vulture.
Back at the station, we took a walk on the trails. We soon encountered a pair of Spider Monkeys in a tree along the trail. They were apparently incensed at our arrival, and began breaking off limbs (several of which had frightening proportions) and dropping them to the ground. We soon moved on, spotting a pair of Black Curassows several times. Near the end of the trail my brother found a Red-necked Woodpecker in a tree next to the trail. A little further on, we had a close call with a Fer-de-lance which lay coiled on the path. Our guide grabbed a branch and killed it, and we soon arrived back at the station.
After supper we took a ride in the boat to look for caiman and other wildlife. We found a Tree Boa along the bank, and on the way back, a Neotropical Cormorant perched by the water followed by a Capped Heron in an overhanging tree.
Day 4 - March 19, 2006
We got up early for a six o'clock boat ride around Indian House Island, which is right in front of the field station. The sandy beach yielded the same birds as Day 2, with the exception of the Collared Plover. Toucans (mostly Channel-billed, but a few Red-billed) flew across the river at regular intervals, and an Osprey gave great in-flight views. Arriving back at the field station, I hunted down a call coming from the bushes next to the river, and found a Black-chinned Antbird, my last lifer of the trip. After a great breakfast of pork sausage and onions, fried potatoes, and orange juice, we left for Georgetown. Our last birds of the trip were Blue-and-Yellow Macaws by the road, and the last mammal was a Tayra, which crossed the trail as we were leaving.
I finished the trip with 22 lifers and 41 year birds. I saw many birds that were on my wish list, including Grey-winged Trumpeter, Black Curassow, Guianan Toucanet, Screaming Piha, and Cock-of-the-Rock. Definitely a successful trip!
