Hi all-
Hope some of you will find the following trip report of interest. If you should have any questions about birding in Israel, please send me a message or e-mail.
-Adam
DOPPS ISRAEL TRIP – MARCH 2004
Introduction
During March 2004, five of us from DOPPS (BirdLife partner in Slovenia) made a trip to Israel. The participants were: Adam Goloda (leader), Milan Gorjanc, Natasa Gorjanc, Vojko Havlicek, and Miha Podlogar. An account of the daily highlights follows.
Saturday, March 13 – Arrival
The flight arrived on time at Ben Gurion International, and we proceeded to Jerusalem, where we spent the first day relaxing and walking through the narrow streets of the Old City.
Sunday, March 14 – Jerusalem Bird Observatory, Beer Sheva Sewage Ponds
We arrived at sunrise near the Israeli Knesset and walked a short distance to the nature preserve and ringing station of the Jerusalem Bird Observatory. En route we were treated to views of Syrian Woodpecker and Palestine Sunbird.
A cup of tea was offered, which we drank while observing White-spectacled Bulbuls and a couple more sunbirds near the feeders.
The head ringer arrived and explained his ringing procedure while showing us what was being caught on this day. We were treated to in-the-hand views of Blackcap, Lesser Whitethroat, Orphean Warbler, and a first-year male Cretzschmar’s Bunting.
A walk around the observatory grounds produced Redstart, Chiffchaff, Lesser Whitethroat, a very cooperative Chukar, and a roosting Long-eared Owl.
By mid-morning, rain was approaching, so we walked to the van, left Jerusalem, and made our way south to the Central Negev.
A stop was made at the sewage ponds on the outskirts of the city of Beer Sheva, where we encountered Black Kites, Cattle Egrets, Ruffs, and Spur-winged Plovers. The bird of the day was a Citrine Wagtail among the many White Wagtails and Yellow Wagtails.
Monday, March 15 – Nahal Habesor, Urim-Zeelim Road
A small flock of migrating Cranes was silhouetted against the first light of morning as we departed our lodgings at Kibbutz Mashabei Sde for the river valley of Nahal Habesor.
Along the road through desert steppe habitat en route to the river, we found Blue Rock Thrush, Cretzschmar’s Buntings, small numbers of Isabelline Wheatears, and the first Brown-necked Raven of the trip.
A roadside water-filled depression held large numbers of Cattle Egrets along with Shovelers and a Little Grebe.
We arrived at Nahal Habesor and proceeded to drive slowly along the dirt road above the river, our fist stop being at a suspended footbridge over some marshy habitat that held Little Grebe, Little Crake, White-breasted Kingfisher, and singing Cetti’s Warblers. A little further on were several Cretzschmar’s Buntings and a couple of Hoopoes.
We continued along the road, accompanied by Spur-winged Plovers and Crested Larks, passing through a green, rolling, flower-filled landscape. Our attention was quickly caught by an impressive passage of about 1500 White Storks.
Many Black Kites were also on the move, and other raptors included Steppe Buzzard, Short-toed Eagle, and Kestrel. Near an area of small cliffs we had good looks at Little Owl and Great Spotted Cuckoo.
After a lunch break, we proceeded to the fields of the Urim-Zeelim Road. As we were here during mid-day, it was no surprise that we found no raptors with the exception of one Long-legged Buzzard. A flock of 2000 White Storks, though, made up for the absence of other species.
Tuesday, March 16 – Nizzana Area
This morning we left for the Nizzana area of the western Negev, near the Egyptian border.
First we drove through the flat desert landscape in search of water in one of three sewage pond complexes with the hope of encountering drinking sandgrouse. Our search for the water was successful, but despite waiting during the appropriate hour, we were not rewarded with any of the elusive, nomadic species. We did have nice views, though, of a few Ruffs, Green Sandpipers, and Little Ringed Plovers.
En route to the area of the Nizzana airstrip, the place was saturated with Isabelline Wheatears, and we spotted a couple of distant Dorcas Gazelles. Near the Nizzana fortress, a very cooperative Little Owl flew next to the van and landed just a few meters away.
We scanned the monotonous terrain near the airstrip for several minutes before turning up a stunning, displaying male Houbara Bustard, and then we made our way further south.
Stopping in a choice looking grassy patch near a rocky slope on the way to Ezuz, we found good numbers of Tawny Pipits along with Common Wheatears and Black-eared Wheatears, some entertaining Arabian Babblers, and a beautiful Masked Shrike.
We were given directions by a group of Israeli ornithologists to a spot for Cream-colored Coursers, and even before arriving at the described locale, we had already found six of the spectacular desert “shorebirds” along with a few Linnets and a Desert Lark.
While lunching at the nearby Beerotayim picnic area we saw a few Chukars, Steppe Buzzard, Woodchat Shrike, and singing Greenfinches, and a stop at the Nizzana fortress on our way out of the area was good for two migrant Alpine Swifts.
Wednesday, March 17 – Sde Boker, Ein Avdat
Leaving Mashabei Sde for Eilat, our first stop of the day was the orchards of Sde Boker to look for Desert Finch. We didn’t have to search for long before finding two lovely individuals.
In the nearby scrub were Arabian Babblers and Graceful Prinias, along with a Stonechat and a Bluethroat. A stop near the large solar station rewarded us with excellent views of five Black-bellied Sandgrouse.
Soon we were descending into the spectacular Tzin Valley and then arrived in the gorge of Ein Avdat, where we were greeted by the resident pair of Bonelli’s Eagles as they soared overhead and gave fantastic looks in the morning light.
The gorge also held Griffon Vultures and Egyptian Vultures, Alpine Swifts and Pallid Swifts, and Pale Crag Martins; several pairs of noisy Tristram’s Grackles serenaded us with their characteristic whistling calls.
A walk to the waterfall produced Scrub Warbler and Mourning Wheatear, and a pair of Desert Finches was seen gathering nesting material. An unusual sight was that of a Green Sandpiper wading and feeding at the top of the falls.
On the walk back out of the gorge, we were treated to the sight of young Nubian Ibex on the cliffs. One mother with two newly born young was seen with the placenta still hanging out of her hind parts.
A stop at Mitzpe Ramon to view the enormous crater brought us some friendly Desert Larks and the trip’s first White-crowned Black Wheatear.
Thursday, March 18 – Eilat Environs
Our first day in the Eilat area began on the stony plains of the Alaemon Nature Reserve (more well-known as K-33) in the Arava Valley. Long a traditional spot to find the less common lark species, it did not prove fruitful on this morning. A Green Bee-eater at the small power station was our only consolation.
Moving southward we stopped near the ancient spring of Ein Evrona. Pale Crag Martins were winging around along with a few migrant House Martins, and a Green Bee-eater posed for photos at close range. We had a light raptor migration here, too, with Black Kites, Steppe Buzzards, and a few Steppe Eagles.
Our next stop was the always productive K-20 salt pools, where we were able to peruse a good selection of waders, including Avocet and Black-tailed Godwit. A couple hundred Greater Flamingos were left over from the winter, and two White Pelicans, a pair of Black-necked Grebes, two Little Gulls and many Slender-billed Gulls were also present. Duck species here included Shelduck, Garganey, Pintail, and Shoveler.
Continuing southward, we stopped at the K-19 sewage ponds, one pond being just right for Little Ringed Plover, Water Pipits, Red-throated Pipits, and a Bluethroat, and Eilat’s bird-watching park held large numbers of hawking Barn Swallows and Sand Martins.
After a mid-day break, we spent the last hour or two of daylight at North Beach looking for species that are difficult to see elsewhere in Israel. The place did not disappoint, as we were soon viewing numbers of White-eyed Gulls, a couple of Reef Herons, and a Green Heron. Common Tern and Baltic Gull were also present, and at least a hundred Black Storks migrated in from offshore at sunset.
Friday, March 19 – Neot Smadar, Amram’s Pillars, K-19, Eilat Pumping Station
We spent this morning exploring the fields, orchards, and other environs of Kibbutz Neot Smadar, about 75km north of Eilat.
Upon entering the area we were treated to magnificent views of a Masked Shrike, and one tree was full of migrant Spanish Sparrows.
Neot Smadar’s alfalfa fields were good for Crested Larks, Short-toed Larks, Isabelline Wheatears, a few Eastern Stonechats and a Corn Bunting, while a walk through a heavily vegetated depression brought us Redstart, Bluethroat, Whitethroat, and many Lesser Whitethroats and Chiffchaffs.
A stop at the kibbutz sewage ponds on the way out brought us a stunning male Rock Thrush and a White-crowned Black Wheatear.
Some sightseeing was next on the agenda – in the form of the not-to-be-missed geological wonder that is Amram’s Pillars – before heading to the other side of the Arava highway to investigate a dung pile near K-19 that was reportedly hosting a Cyprus Wheatear.
The wheatear was indeed present on the large, fresh mound of chicken droppings, which also held Isabelline Wheatear, Common Wheatear, and Black-eared Wheatear. Also present were White Wagtails, Yellow Wagtails, Red-throated Pipits, a Bluethroat, and Little Ringed Plover.
We closed the day near the Eilat pumping station, where we turned up Sand Partridge, Green Bee-eater, and Sardinian Warbler.
Saturday, March 20 – Eilat Mountains
As conditions were right for a decent hawk flight this morning, we positioned ourselves in the Eilat Mountains between the peaks of Mt. Shlomo and Mt. Yoash.
Between 08:00 and 10:00 we experienced an impressive passage of soaring migrants, including the following: Steppe Buzzard (3000+), Black Stork (500+), Black Kite (100+), Steppe Eagle (30), Egyptian Vulture (2), and Short-toed Eagle (1). Several Alpine Swifts also were seen migrating.
The remainder of the day was spent relaxing and snorkeling at Eilat’s Coral Beach Nature Reserve.
Sunday, March 21 – Eilat to Dead Sea
Leaving Eilat early for the long drive to the Dead Sea, our first stop was near a recently productive green area near kilometer post 78 along the Arava Highway.
Our exploration of the area had just begun to turn up White Wagtails, Chiffchaffs, Lesser Whitethroats, Whitethroats, and Isabelline Wheatears, when an IDF vehicle arrived on the scene.
The commander, a friendly, young female soldier, asked us what we were doing, as we were relatively close to the Jordan border. Adam showed her his Israeli identification card and we were soon chatting amicably and sharing some views of the birds. One of her subordinates offered to take a picture of all of us in front of their vehicle.
Shortly, another security vehicle arrived and we were asked to move along.
After some more driving up the Arava Valley, we arrived at the southern end of the Dead Sea and the fish ponds of Ein Tamar. The ponds were fairly quiet, but we did manage to find a Little Crake and several Dead Sea Sparrows.
We next paid an obligatory visit to Israel’s most visited archaeological site – Masada. All was not archaeological in nature, however, as after ascending in the cable-car we were treated to close views of the resident Tristram’s Grackles and Fan-tailed Ravens.
After exploring the cliff-top ruins, we descended on foot and made our way to our lodgings at Metzoke Dragot.
Monday, March 22 – Nahal Darga, Nahal Arugot
A tremendous breakfast spread, with a view of the Dead Sea and two close Cretzschmar’s Buntings, was followed by a stop at a lookout over the mouth of the Nahal Darga gorge, where we saw some 250 migrating Black Storks. En route to Nahal Arugot, a Barbary Falcon gave great views as it flew alongside us and then across the road.
At the Nahal Arugot picnic area, swarms of Tristram’s Grackles were attracted by a girl tossing pieces of bread; sometimes as many as thirty of the noisy, orange-winged, black birds were sitting together in one acacia tree.
The gorge itself was rather quiet by the time we began to walk through it, but we did see two Graceful Prinias flitting along the stream, Fan-tailed Ravens were flying over, and two strange-looking Rock Hyraxes put in a brief appearance.
We finished the day with a float in the Dead Sea, and on the way back up to Metzoke Dragot we found seven male Nubian Ibex.
Tuesday, March 23 – Metzoke Dragot, Kefar Rupin
Another breakfast fit for royalty, and this morning the addition of a mouthwatering raptor migration quite literally over the breakfast table, with Steppe Buzzards in abundance, along with Long-legged Buzzard, Short-toed Eagle, and Steppe Eagle.
Leaving the Dead Sea, we drove up the Jordan Valley to Kibbutz Kefar Rupin. After a mid-day siesta, we spent the last couple hours of daylight enjoying the likes of White-breasted Kingfisher, Pied Kingfisher, Temminck’s Stint, Pallas’s Gull, and Clamorous Reed Warbler around the kibbutz fish ponds. Before the day was finished, a Black Francolin also put in an appearance.
Wednesday, March 24 – Bet Shean Valley
Today was spent in the environs of Kefar Rupin and the Bet Shean Valley, the first part of the day taking us to the kibbutz’s western turf fields. En route we stopped at a bird reserve saturated with Night Herons, and the fields themselves were full of Red-throated Pipits, White Wagtails, and Yellow Wagtails (flava and feldegg ssp.). At least six Ospreys were present in the area, and Black Francolin was seen along the dirt roads.
We made a mid-day detour to the northern slopes of Mt. Gilboa to see the lovely, endemic Gilboa Iris before returning to Kefar Rupin for a rest.
In the late afternoon, we took a short drive to the fish ponds of Maoz Haim. A large, recently-drained pond was full of birds: Black-headed Gull (2000+), Pallas’s Gull (100+), Little Stint (300+), Ruff (50), Ringed Plover (5), Avocet (2), Temminck’s Stint (1), Dunlin (1). Just before sunset, we drove south to the sewage ponds of Kibbutz Tirat Tzvi, where we happily found a Citrine Wagtail and half a dozen Jack Snipe.
The drive back along the dirt roads to Kefar Rupin was not without excitement, as we all witnessed the fascinating habits of a Desert Warbler running in front of our van. The reddish tail with white sides showed well on this little Sylvia, an unusual migrant for this part of the country.
Thursday, March 25 – Golan Heights, Hula Valley
After ascending into the southern end of the Golan Heights first thing in the morning, accompanied at times by small flocks of Chukars, we made a stop at a roadside reservoir where we found a few Meadow Pipits.
Our next stop was the archaeological site and nature reserve of Gamla. A couple dozen Griffon Vultures, for which the gorge at Gamla is famous, soared overhead upon our arrival, intermittently accompanied by a pair of Bonelli’s Eagles and here and there a Short-toed Eagle.
Whitethroats were singing everywhere between the reserve entrance and the gorge. Along the walk to Gamla’s upper waterfall, we found Southern Gray Shrike and Woodchat Shrike, and Zitting Cisticolas were performing their characteristic, circling song-flight.
Upon reaching the waterfall, we were met by small, screaming flocks of Alpine Swifts along with their diminutive white-rumped cousins – Little Swifts. From this cliff-top vantage point, we viewed several Griffon Vultures on their nests, and after one left we were treated to superb views of a downy youngster.
After an afternoon break, we made a brief visit to the Hula Nature Reserve in the Hula Valley, where we turned up Pygmy Cormorant, Little Bittern, Cetti’s Warbler, and three late Rooks. Several thousand White Storks were seen coming in to roost in the valley.
Friday, March 26 – Hula Valley
We couldn’t have asked for a better morning in the Hula, cool and clear, with the snowy Mt. Hermon watching over the valley in the distance.
Our first stop was a re-flooded portion of the valley (drained in the 1950s in an effort to eradicate malaria-carrying mosquitoes). From blinds overlooking the aquatic environs, we were able to inconspicuously view the throngs of water-birds in attendance, which included Spoonbills, seven Marbled Ducks, and a Water Rail. A Citrine Wagtail was present not far from the blind, and a Penduline Tit put on quite a show as it flitted through the vegetation only a few meters in front of us.
Before leaving this spot, a first-year Spotted Eagle soared over us, and we also viewed a sub-adult Imperial Eagle. By the time we reached our next viewpoint, we were experiencing some light Lesser Spotted Eagle migration, and the stop proved worthwhile for Water Rail and Spotted Crake.
Driving around the periphery of the re-flooded area produced every common migrant wader, and the dirt tracks through the valley were good for raptors including Long-legged Buzzard and Black Kite. Common Crane was a common sight, and at one point we saw upwards of 4000 White Storks migrating northward.
Saturday, March 27 – Merom Golan, Mt. Hermon
It was back into the Golan Heights today, with the kibbutz of Merom Golan as our first stop. Sadly, the gates were closed as it was Saturday, but we did manage to see a few Linnets and Greenfinches, along with Song Thrush, Robin, and many singing Whitethroats.
We left Merom Golan and drove through the town of Majdal Shams to the security gate across the road to Mt. Hermon. After waiting five minutes, we got permission to drive up. Our first and second stops along the road proved fruitful, as we found Woodlark, Syrian Serin, and the semirufus sub-species of Black Redstart.
After arriving at the lower chairlift station and milling about for a while, we were offered a lift to the top at no charge and accepted. A couple more semirufus Black Redstarts were seen on the way up, and from the snowy top we saw several pairs of Common Wheatears.
The real prize at the summit, though, was a pair of bicornis Shore Larks, found a short distance from the upper chairlift station. Apparently we had wandered onto restricted military property, though, so we were asked to leave the area. As one of our party was also experiencing ill effects of the altitude, we took the chairlift back down and called it a day.
Sunday, March 28 – Kibbutz Dalia
Today was a travel day, from our lodgings in the Hula Valley to the Carmel Coast, but we did make a stop along the way at Kibbutz Dalia to view their impressive population of nesting Lesser Kestrels.
We saw the beautiful falcons everywhere we looked – on rooftops, in trees, and in the air. At one point, we saw at least 25 birds soaring together over the small park near the kibbutz dining room, and as if this wasn’t enough, we also had a good raptor migration here with Lesser Spotted Eagles, Black Kites, and Steppe Buzzards. Large numbers of White Storks were also part of this passage.
Monday, March 29 – Maagan Michael
The morning of our last day in Israel was spent around the numerous fish ponds near Kibbutz Maagan Michael on the Carmel Coast. This area has long been known as one of the best places in Israel to see birds, and it lived up to its reputation, with all manner of waders and water-birds around the ponds.
Though we were kept busy scanning through the hordes of birds on a couple of recently drained ponds and turned up yet another Citrine Wagtail, we had the best birds of the morning from the beach on the Mediterranean Sea while scanning the so-called “Pigeon Islands”.
The two small, rocky islets did indeed hold feral pigeons, but there was also a massive Peregrine Falcon that looked nothing short of majestic as it sat perched waiting for the next unwary wader to pass. A lovely, adult male Pallid Harrier was seen migrating northward, and two Ruddy Shelducks were also seen migrating low over the water before it was time for us to leave and prepare for our flight back home.
Conclusion
A trip to Israel is highly recommended. We had outstanding weather and encountered enormous numbers and variety. Though we were unlucky with the sandgrouse and larks, we still finished the trip with a total species count of 189.
So two weeks is not quite enough Blackstart? ;-)
Very impressive bird-list and great trip report. I'm jealous!
Thanks,
Andy.
Hi Andy-
Two months would of course be preferable, but the last couple weeks of March are quite satisfying.
A trip I was part of during the same dates in 2002 yielded 218 species.
-Adam