World Trip Reports

Greece April 2009 - mainly Cephalonia



This was mainly an archaeology/mythology trip, visiting sites associated with the Odyssey, though I managed a fair bit of wildlife watching as well. Visited Cephalonia and Ithaki, and, briefly, the Patras area on the Peoloponnese.

Arrived on Cephalonia on 14th, with many Cory's (Scopoli's?) Shearwaters close by the ferry from Patras.

On the whole, most of the countryside on these islands - olive groves, meadows, scrub etc. - was beautiful but not fantastic for birds, though Sardinian Warblers were very common and there was a good scattering of Woodchat Shrikes, Cirl Buntings and Cetti's Warblers. Butterfly-wise, Scarce Swallowtails were widespread, as well as fewer Common Swallowtails; I'm not sure if I saw any Southerns.

Good areas were:

The Livadi marshes (name invented by Birdforum contributor Reader) on Cephalonia - in a brief visit saw 2 Squacco Heron and a Black-winged Stilt. Huge numbers of Yellow Wagtails (in a variety of colour schemes) were around, obviously passing through, and there were Alpine Swifts overhead. The surrounding fields had great numbers of Corn Buntings - at a higher density than anywhere I've come across in Britain.

The Argostoli lagoon: from the far end of the lagoon a path leads through very varied and beautiful countryside. I saw 1 Cattle Egret, 1 Montpellier Snake and 1 Pied Fycatcher along here. The lagoon itself is sea water with virtually no vegetation or sandy/muddy shores to attract birds. However my wildife highlight of the trip did occur here - a great view of a large Loggerhead Turtle. Apparently, while Greece's turtles disperse far and wide outside of the nesting season, they can be seen in the lagoon here all the year round. If this is true, then I'd say that a slow walk along the lagoon shore will always lead to good sightings.

Both Argostoli on Cephalonia and Vathy had healthy urban Scops Owl populations: in Argostoli concentrated in the little park behind the bus station.

As well as the wagtails, there were other migrants all around Cephalonia and Ithaca - lots of Whinchats and a few Pied Flycatchers and Common Sandpipers.

Back on the Peloponnese, I just had time for a flying visit to the edge of the Strofylia Forest-Kotychi Lagoon, south of Patras. This looks like a place worthy of an in-depth visit: I saw a Great Spotted Cuckoo and a White Stork, while migrants were again much in evidence, mainly Wood Sandpipers and again wagtails.

I paid an even briefer visit to the kastro (castle) in Patras, seeing a Hoopoe, a Woodchat Shrike and a Moorish Gecko; if you have an hour to spare in Patras, this is the obvious place to head for.

For environmental reasons, I did this trip entirely by train and ferry - very feasible from southern England, though only if you have 2 weeks in total. London to Patras can take just 48 hours, though it's nicer to stop off en route - I worked in stop-overs in Milan and Paris. If you book far enough in advance you can do the whole trip for less than £250 return. I can't see myself doing any more plane travel in Europe at all.


Hi James, good report. You say you won't fly again, why not?



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