For those of us who have to combine holiday birdwatching with keeping small people and spouses amused picking the right location is a real balancing act. Not enough birds is a missed opportunity, too many good birds can be even worse as either birdwatching parent is accused of neglect or birdwatching parent has to be on beach building sandcastles grumping at what goodies they might be missing in that patch of scrub just behind the beach…
With this conundrum in mind I persuaded the family that Fuerteventura would be a great holiday destination this winter. Whilst not teeming with birds it has an endemic species and several speciality species to keep Daddy interested whilst still leaving plenty of quality family time. Combined with winter sunshine, excellent beaches and delicious Spanish food it looked to be a real winner and it certainly was!
We stayed at El Cotillo in the NW of the island. This choice was made on the basis that it seemed to be less developed than other resorts (although there is quite a lot of building on the outskirts so go sooner rather than later) a good selection of traditional Canarian restaurants (sorry can’t understand people who eat British food on holiday!) and had excellent lagoon beaches (where lava has spilled into the sea protecting the sandy beaches from the worse of the Atlantic). It was also very handy for El Cotillo plains and Los Molinos reservoir. The resort lived up to expectations great food and superb beaches, but I digress – what about the birds….
In a weeks stay I saw 44 species and apart from a half day with local guide Derek Bradbury these were all seen in brief morning walks or whilst out and about with the family, they included the endemic Chat and most of the specialities I had targeted.
Common birds on the island were Raven, Collared Dove, Spanish Sparrow, Yellow-legged Gull and Kestrel. These were seen everywhere, everyday. Also seen daily in the right habitat were Buzzard, Hoopoe, Lesser Short-toed Lark, Berthelot’s Pipit, and Linnet (all in the scrubby plains and lava fields) and Whimbrel and Turnstone (on the beach). Cory’s Shearwaters were seen from the beach in some numbers everyday, appearing from 4 o’clock onwards and some individuals came quite close to the shore.
In order to maximise my chances on the specialities I booked a half day with local guide Derek Bradbury http://www.fuerteventurabirdwatch.co.uk/ and on the Friday of our stay we set out at 7am, our first target being Houbara Bustard. I was hoping to see the spectacular display but it was coming to the end of the season so chances were not great. We drove onto the plain near Lajares and set up in a spot Derek knew where 3 displaying Bustards had been seen. A rather misty start hampered our chances somewhat but after about ten minutes of scanning and waiting we picked up a male Bustard. I was delighted to then watch it raise its’ epaulets, throw back its head, fluff out its’ white breast feathers then run around manically in a figure of eight in full display. How do they not trip up?
A second Bustard was then located in the distance. This second bird did not display but gave a good demonstration of its’ peculiar crouching run as it darted between clumps of vegetation. A good start and we headed for a nearby Barranco to a site Derek knew would likely produce the endemic Canary Islands Chat.
It was pretty quiet when we first arrived with only a pair of Ruddy Shelducks (a lifer for me as a wild bird so no complaints!) but as we settled down and our presence was accepted more birds appeared. First was a small flock of Trumpeter Finches (another lifer), they look their best at this time of year and were very vocal with their amusing child’s toy call. A Little Ringed Plover put in an appearance before Derek picked up the female Chat and we enjoyed good views but the male rather frustratingly did not show so we headed across the plain to Tindaya enjoying a pair of Southern Grey Shrikes and flight views of Black-bellied Sandgrouse en route.
We headed next to Los Molinos reservoir for ducks and waders. On arrival I immediately saw a male Canary Islands Chat perched on the dam. Frustratingly it flew as soon as I lifted my bins’. The reservoir and surrounding banks held many Ruddy Shelduck (I’d estimate 80+) and a real bonus was Marbled Duck, about 8 birds swam from the bank on our approach and gave good views on the middle of the reservoir, but these were the only duck species present (apparently it has been a bad winter for ducks on the island). Wader species included 10+ Black-winged Stilt, several Greenshank, Common Sandpiper, Little Ringed Plover and a single Spotted Redshank. We also saw more Black-bellied Sandgrouse (again in flight) and another Southern Grey Shrike before two hikers came through (way off the path) and disturbed everything. Although this was somewhat annoying the sight and sound of 80+ Ruddy Shelduck taking flight was very memorable as indeed was the sight of the lady hiker dropping her pants and emptying her bladder totally oblivious to two birdwatchers in the hide opposite. The temptation to jump out of the hide and shock her was great but “Urinating Woman” was a new tick so we thought better of it.
By now lunchtime was upon so after a refreshing beer in Tindaya I said goodbye to Derek following a very satisfying morning. The only target I had not seen was Cream-coloured Courser, but per Derek these were being difficult at the moment as the inclement weather has moved them off some of their most regular haunts (the Canary Islands have had by their standards a poor winter (“worst for 30 years” said one local but others said this was an exaggeration) thankfully it was hot and sunny throughout our stay). Derek is based in El Cotillo and I recommend contacting him via his website above if you are visiting the island.
The rest of the holiday was snatched birdwatching whilst doing family stuff – highlights were:-
African Blue Tit (subspecies “dejener”) a pair were feeding young at the Mirador de Morro Velosa and another pair were in palms at the café by the church in Betancuria. Great to watch them whilst enjoying a crepe with local goats cheese and a cold beer. They really are very different from ours so are worth seeking out. Our only Goldfinches of the trip were also here. Betancuria is very pretty and well worth a visit.
Eurasian Spoonbill, 3 at El Cotillo lighthouse feeding in the lava rock pools. There were also Ringed Plover and Kentish Plover here.
Egyptian Vulture, an adult over near the village of La Matilla was the only one of the trip.
Robin, White Wagtail, Grey Wagtail. These species were only seen on one day at the Oasispark Zoo near La Lajita. The Wagtails were both in the elephant enclosure. The zoo was worth a visit as plenty to see and going by the condition of the enclosures and animals they look after them very well. I did feel a bit uncomfortable with the bicycle riding cockatoo though. The neighbouring cactus garden was worth a visit too. I also saw Sacred Ibis here (a feral population derived from escapees exists on the island) Our drive down the east coast did make us think that we had chosen our resort well in El Cotillo, Caleta de Fuste in particular looked horrible!
Houbara Bustard. I saw a further Bustard in flight when I took a short trip to the plain south of El Cotillo in search of the Courser (which I did not find). I then saw what I took to be the same bird on the plain towards the coast.
Canary Islands Chat. I was still very keen to get a decent look at a male so Derek gave me directions to an area of the vast El Cotillo lava field where I should see them. My first visit in the early morning just produced lots of Berthelot’s Pipits and Lesser Short-toed Larks, but I returned after a trip to the beach on our last afternoon and was rewarded with excellent views. The sight of the male Chat perched against the blue sky was the perfect ending to the holiday (that and the excellent Octopus in moho sauce and platter of fish we enjoyed for dinner that night!).
Overall an excellent trip plenty of birds, great beaches, superb food (fish lovers paradise) and a happy family. I would thoroughly recommend Fuerteventura to anyone who wants to mix some good birdwatching in with a family holiday.
I also had the two wagtail species in enclosures at the zoo, and even better a Yellow-browed Warbler in the bushes flanking the paths which was a real surprise.
Hope to go back fairly soon, thanks for posting this.
Stephen.
Good account. I'm glad that you enjoyed the culinary diversity as well as the avian.
Allen