Part 1
Iain and I met on a record-breaking tour to Costa Rica last year, and with Sue letting me carry on travelling after Andrew's birth, we decided to join forces. After some discussion we settled on Tropical Birding's Southern Ecuador tour, but a combination of KLM's flight schedules and some stunning pics on Surfbirds prompted us to book a short pre-tour extension to see the antpittas near Mindo.
In the days leading up to departure we were concerned that Iain might be snowed-in in Thurso, and he ended up taking the train to Edinburgh rather than the bus just to be on the safe side. We checked-in OK, had a pint to mark the start of the trip, then discovered an unspecified delay. One of the other passengers seemed to relish reporting that Schiphol had been closed since lunchtime by snow! This was not the best start to our holiday ...
We eventually left around 45 minutes late. Our descent into Amsterdam passed through some "interesting" weather conditions and by the time we got into the terminal the boards were reporting the flight to Quito as having closed 15 minutes earlier. We went to the gate anyway and discovered that they were waiting for a number of passengers and all was well. We eventually left about an hour and a half late, having had the plane sprayed with de-icer (hmm.).
We reached Quito at 09:50 local time (only 40 minutes late), and after meeting Holger (guide) and Rolando (driver) we were on our way. Our first stop was at Calacali, well known as a site for white-tailed shrike-tyrant. As on my previous visit, they were nowhere to be found. Highlights included golden-rumped euphonia, purple-collared woodstar and black-tailed trainbearer. After eating a packed lunch we continued our journey to Tandayapa. Whilst Holger made arrangements for seeing the antpittas next morning we watched hummingbird feeders, which were a hive of activity as ever.
The remainder of the day was spent birding the upper valley, mostly along the road above Bellavista. Plenty of good birds included very nice views of plate-billed mountain toucan, sickle-winged guan, streaked tuftedcheek, Spillmann's tapaculo, grass-green tanager ... all-in-all a promising start to the trip...
Rob
Next morning the alarms were set for 4:30 and after a quick coffee we set off towards Refugio Paz de los Aves (or "the antpitta farm"). A pauraque on the entrance road was a promising beginning. We set off down the trail in the gloaming until we came to a spot where Angel said there was a rufescent screech owl. Holger promptly played a tape (although in general tapes are not permitted here) and the owl appeared above our heads giving cracking views. A mere 20 yards further on and there was a yellow-breasted antpitta in the middle of the trail - this was a special place! Further on down Holger said that giant antpittas were calling. I then twigged that I could hear Andean cock-of-the-rock. Angel has built a hide overlooking the lek and we watched around 7 males performing enthusiastically, with a short interlude to watch a golden-headed quetzal. Angel went off to get some worms ... We were eating a packed breakfast in the hide, when I happened to look round - there was a giant antpitta on the trail behind us! This is the bird known as "Maria", probably the most confiding. She came to within about 5 feet before deciding we din't have any worms.
Angel then returned and we headed down to a stream so that they could be washed(!). Maria hopped along behind but Manuel (her presumed mate) wouldn't come so close. Maria had to chastised (I kid you not) for stealing worms that hadn't been washed! Once all the worms were clean we went back up the trail and met a Birdseekers group arriving. We then had the ceremonial feeding of Maria for her adoring public. Back up the trail it was time to feed one of the yellow-breasted antpittas (Willy) before Angel set about trying to bring in moustached antpitta. This hadn't been seen for a week or so and did not respond. The Birdseekers group headed off to have breakfast and meanwhile we had another close encounter with a yellow-breasted antpitta and Holger pulled in Narino tapaculo.
Suddenly we were running up the trail - Juan Carlos (Birdseekers local guide) had found a moustached antpitta! This gave superb views too, and hung around long enough for all the other group to make it back. Angel next tried for his latest "project" - dark-backed wood quail - but they didn't respond. He has the enterprising view that anything can be tamed! A mixed flock included green-and-black fruiteater and black-chinned mountain tanager. Even then this amazing place had more to offer - back at the farm we had a black-and-chestnut eagle being mobbed by a swallow-tailed kite and velvet-purple coronet on the feeders. What a morning!
It was then time to head back to Tandayapa for lunch and a last look at the hummer feeders before driving to the airport and our flight to Guayaquil to join the main tour.
Rob
Great reports and photos so far Rob - I'm looking forward to the next episodes.
D