I will try to write and post a day or two at a time, so here is the first full day.
Having visited Northern Ecuador and the Amazon in 2002, this trip was to visit the South and also spend a few days in the North West targeting species missed the previous trip, in particular the Antpittas at Angel Paz’s.
The trip was organised through Tropical Birding and superbly guided throughout by Jose Illanes.
3rd May
I arrived in Quito late afternoon and was met by Jose and transferred to my hotel for the night.
4th May
Jose collected me at 5.15am for the flight to Guayaquil, where we were met by our driver and were soon on our way but not before seeing Scrub Blackbirds and Pacific Parrotlets in the airport car park.
We were soon out of Guayaquil and on the road towards Buenaventura, we passed through lots of wetland areas and saw many egrets and raptors, including Savannah Hawks and Snail Kites. Our first stop was as we passed through Churute reserve when we saw several Horned Screamers. The road here was quite busy so we only stopped long enough to grab a few photos, before continuing on our way.
Further along the road we made a stop in an area of farmland looking for Seedeaters and were rewarded with several in the form of Chestnut-throated, Variable and Yellow-bellied. The star of the show, in terms of rarity if not appearance, was a Large-billed Seedfinch. We also saw our first of many Ecuadorian Ground-Doves and Peruvian Meadowlarks here, the Olive-crowned Yellowthroat that posed for photos was the only sighting of the trip, but as with any trip to the tropics there will be lots of species that you only see once because you only try to see the specie once and not because the bird is particularly rare.
Just before lunch we made a stop at a shrimp farm to view the pools where there were approximately 100 Franklin’s Gulls and good numbers of Gull-billed Terns and White-cheeked Pintails. We also saw our only Green Kingfisher and White Ibis of the trip here.
After having had some lunch we pushed on to Buenaventura, with the only additional stop being for fuel, where we managed to add King Vulture, Short-tailed Hawk and Boat-billed Flycatcher to the list.
Arriving in Buenaventura we headed straight for some Hummingbird feeders, where around ten species were visiting including Emerald-bellied Woodnymphs, Violet-bellied Hummingbirds and Green Thorntails.
Walking along the trails in the area we soon had our first flock, which contained such delights as Golden, Silver-throated, Blue-necked and Lemon-rumped Tanagers, Olivaceous Piculet, Black-winged Saltator and Orange-bellied and Orange-crowned Euphonias amongst others. Flocks are one of the most exciting and frustrating features of birding in the tropics, as you try to sort through the various species before the flock moves on. Very often they are moving through the canopy giving you a stiff neck and often when you see a bird flit through the branches you cannot find it in your binoculars as it has landed out of site.
Further along the trail we taped in a Thrush-like Schiffornis, which would prove to be fairly common at Buenaventura at this time of year as we heard and saw several more over the next couple of days. Plain-brown Woodcreeper, Tawny-breasted Flycatcher, Yellow Tyrannulet and White-bearded Manakins were also found before we completed the loop and arrived back at the hummingbird feeders.
Moving on we headed to an area to look for El Oro Parakeets, but on the way we got the van stuck in a very muddy patch on the dirt road, despite much pushing and wheel-spinning we only succeeded in getting further embedded. After about 30 minutes a four-wheel drive vehicle turned up and they kindly offered to assist us with a tow, although they didn’t have much choice if they wanted to continue on their way as we were completely blocking the road. Having tried towing us out in reverse and failing they almost got stuck themselves whilst trying to do a three-point turn, but eventually, almost an hour after first getting stuck, we were free and could continue.
When we reached another very muddy area we decided it may be better to leave the van and walk from here. We were then soon enjoying great views of an endangered Grey-backed Hawk as it perched in a tree on the edge of the forest. Violet-tailed Sylph and Velvet-purple Coronet were added to our growing list of Hummingbirds.
Several more species of Tanager were seen her including Highland Hepatic, White-winged and Flame-faced. I always find tyrant flycatchers, with a few exceptions, difficult to identify so I was quite pleased to be able to recognise a Loja Tyrannulet without any assistance.
Before long it started to get dark and we had to head back along the road through the area where we had previously been stuck, but fortunately the driver chose a better line and we safely continued on our way to Umbrellabird Lodge in time for dinner.
5th May
The day started well with a group of Fasciated Wrens visiting the fruit feeders whilst we ate breakfast. Our main target today was to be Long-wattled Umbrellabird, although the rangers telling us that the Umbrellabirds are not normally seen at this time of year was not the news we wanted to hear. After breakfast we headed straight for the Umbrellabird trail and we soon heard a Song Wren, which showed well next to the trail. Later in the day passing the same spot we saw the Song Wren again as it left a nest.
Despite much searching there was neither sight nor sound of an Umbrellabird, but the time we spent along this trail was not wasted as we saw some great birds. Puffbirds are one of my favourite families and often sit motionless for long periods, which whilst making them hard to spot does make them easier to photograph, particularly when the light is not good and you need to use a long exposure. Jose proved how good his eyesight was when he spotted a White-whiskered Puffbird perched on a low branch about 20 metres off the trail. This was not the first time and definitely would not be the last that I had to wonder quite how he managed to spot a bird well back in dense vegetation through a small gap.
One of the joys of South American birding are Ants, well Antwrens, Antbirds, Antvireos, Antshrikes and Antpittas. Some of these can be seen quite easily but a lot of them make you work hard for the pleasure. So it was good to see several representatives really well and without having to try particularly hard, these were Western Slaty and Russet Antshrikes, Checker-throated and Slaty Antwrens and Chestnut-backed Antbird.
One particular joy was watching an immature male Club-winged Manakin displaying, he seemed to have all the moves, but couldn’t make any sound. Presumably his wing feathers hadn’t fully developed, either that or he just needed a lot more practice. He had succeeded in attracting a White-bearded Manakin, or maybe she just happened to be in the same tree.
White-throated Spadebill, Brownish Twistwing and Ochraceous Attila were the other nice additions to the list before we called it quits on looking for the Umbrellabird at this site and decided to head up the road to an Umbrellabird nest that Jose had discovered being built in March, in a tree right next to the road. When Jose had returned in April the bird was sitting on eggs. unfortunately a month had now passed and the nest was empty, we searched in the general area, but without success. We did however manage to see Pale-mandibled Aracari and Chestnut-mandibled Toucan in the area and a Barred Hawk circling way off in the distance.
Driving a short distance back down the road we took another trail, which was much higher and more open than the Umbrellabird trail. The highlight along here were two Pacific Tuftedcheeks that showed really well right above the trail. A Blue-winged Mountain-Tanager seen here was several hundred metres lower than the minimum altitude suggested by the field guide.
We did see a couple of flocks along the trail and added Glistening-green, Rufous-throated, Golden-naped and Beryl-spangled Tanagers to our ever-growing list. A Brown-billed Scythebill proved a little harder to see as he kept flying past in response to the tape, but always landing out of sight.
We returned to the lodge for lunch and spent some time photographing the hummingbirds visiting the feeders and a Black-cheeked Woodpecker on the fruit feeder. Before heading back out we also scrutinised the Swifts to pick out Chesnut-collared and Lesser Swallow-tailed amongst the White-collared and Grey-rumped.
The afternoon was spent back on the Umbrellabird trail, still no Umbrellabirds but we did get brief views of a rare Ochre-bellied Dove. In addition to a lot of the species we had seen that morning we also added Collared Trogon, Western Woodhaunter, Black-tailed Flycatcher and Orange-billed Sparrow.
We spent a short time looking for nightbirds, but Pauraque was all we saw on the drive back to the lodge.
6th May
Whilst eating breakfast an unusual call could be heard one hundred metres or so up the road, so we finished off quickly and walked up there, seeing a Pauraque on the way. Jose had just started to record the bird when it flew into the tree right next to us giving its normal call. It was a fabulous Crested Guan, it looked at us for 30 seconds from a distance of no more than 20 metres, before flying off towards the lodge. As we walked back down the road it was sat in a bare tree right next to where we had just been eating breakfast. It stayed in this tree for around 15 minutes allowing us to take in more detail as the sun began to rise and the light improved.
As we drove up the road to a trail we had walked the previous day we were fortunate to see a Little Tinamou crossing the road, although the view was rather brief. Jose then heard an Esmeraldas Antbird singing so we stopped the van and were soon able to see this.
As we walked along this trail Jose saw White-tipped Sicklebills a couple of times, but each time as soon as he saw them they disappeared. When this happened for a third time we decided to stake out the Heliconia flowers in the area. We found a position where it was possible to see four flowers including the one it had been at when Jose glimpsed it. After 10 minutes it appeared and perched on one of the flowers and I was at last able to see it as it fed for a short time alongside a Wedge-billed Hummingbird. With the huge difference in bill shape that these two hummingbirds have I would not have expected to see them feeding on the same type of flower, but they just adopt different techniques, the Wedge-billed hovering whilst the Sicklebill grips on the dangling flower with his feet.
We took the time to call in a few species that we had previously only heard, most of these I had seen on my previous trip to Ecuador, but it is always nice to see them again. These included Uniform Antshrike, Immaculate Antbird, Line-cheeked Spinetail, Bay Wren and Andean Solitaite. The latter we didn’t call in but just happened across as we walked along the trail, Andean Solitaire is one of those birds that are very common by voice in the right areas, but much harder to actually see.
As we walked back along the trail we heard a hawk calling ahead, when we got to a spot where we could see it we were thrilled to find it was a Barred Hawk, which is rarely seen perched. This individual had obviously not read the field guide as he posed beautifully for photos.
Around 10a.m. we set off from Buenaventura for the long drive to El Empalme, a long the way we saw our first Croaking Ground-Doves, these were to prove to be fairly common over the next few days.
Once we arrived at El Empalme new birds came thick and fast. Red-masked and Grey-cheeked Parakeets kept flying over and we eventually saw both perched. Whilst in the scrub Tumbes Hummingbirds, Baird’s Flycatchers and Superciliated Wrens revealed themselves.
Playing the call of Pacific Pygmy-Owl to attract passerines soon started a couple of Pygmy-Owls calling one of which we were able to see well. It did also work to attract in passerines with Tropical Gnatcatchers and Southern Beardless-Tyrannulets the first to appear.
A little more perseverance was required to find Tawny-crowned Pygmy-Tyrant and Tumbes Pewee, but we soon found these once we started walking along the road in addition to a nice White-edged Oriole.
Having seen most of the target species, except White-winged Brush-Finch, we set off for Macara where we were to spend the next three nights.
7th May
Jorupe reserve was only a 15 minute drive from Macara, so we were there for dawn. The birding is done along a fairly wide track through the forest and we were to spend all morning here. It didn’t take us long to find the first new birds with Amazalia Hummingbird, of the lowland race, feeding on some flowers, whilst a Plumbeous-backed Thrush showed in the tree above alongside an Ecuadorian Piculet and a Grey-and-gold Warbler.
A calling Pacific Elaenia took a while to locate, but eventually flew into the tree above us in response to playback. A Long-billed Starthroat also put in an appearance whilst we were searching for the Elaenia. All this and we hadn’t even walked more than 50 metres.
No sooner had we started to walk on than we heard a Henna-hooded Foliage-Gleaner behind us. We returned and were able to tape this in for good views, whilst most Foliage-Gleaners are fairly non-descript this one really stands out from the crowd with its orange head.
Eventually we were able to progress beyond the first 50 metres, but it was not much further before we came across our first Ecuadorian Trogon, an uncooperative female, but a male soon followed that posed for photos.
Further along we saw the first of several Collared Antshrikes and a family party of White-tailed Jays that called loudly from the bushes along the track. A Red-billed Scythebill responded well to the tape and gave us great views, but a pair of Blue Ground-Doves gave us the run-around before we eventually got them in the scope.
A trio of Becards was seen during the morning, whilst Slaty was the key one of the three is was nice to get good views of One-coloured and Black-and-White also.
We had been hearing Pale-browed Tinamous regularly during the morning, but it was nearing the time for us to turn around and head back when we were fortunate to have one walk across the track in front of us. Having disappeared into the vegetation a few seconds later it walked back out onto the track as though to take a second look at us, before hurrying back into cover, not to be seen again.
On the way back we were able to add Black-capped Sparrow to the list as it flew across the trail and then came back in for a closer look. Whilst at the same spot we eventually got a response to the tape from a Blackish-headed Spinetail and it didn’t take long before great views were obtained. As the heat increased bird activity decreased, which allowed us time to scan the skies and eventually pick out several Tumbes Swifts.
We headed back to Macara for lunch and then took a rest for a couple of hours as bird activity tends to be at its lowest in the early afternoon. When we met up again to head out it had started to rain quite heavily, so our first stop at the Chestnut-collared Swallow colony in Macara was a brief one.
By the time we had got back to the Jorupe area the rain had eased to a light drizzle, so we set off to bird along the road that runs past the entrance to Jorupe. Our main target was Elegant Crescentchest, but the track along which Jose had seen one recently was now closed by a padlocked gate, although we did see a fine Scarlet-backed Woodpecker whilst stood at the gate. We set off along the road to try and find another Elegant Crescentchest territory and eventually we heard an individual high up a vine-covered hill side.
It looked as though it would be quite tough going to get up to where the bird was calling, but Jose was up for it so we decided to give it a go. A barbed wire fence was soon negotiated and we were into the dense vines, which after a while started to cause irritation to the skin, but by this point we were too close to the bird to think about turning back. Despite playing the tape the bird did not seem to want to reveal itself, but once Jose had made a recording of this individual and played that back it appeared quite quickly. It was well worth the effort as it was a very attractive bird.
As the rain got a little heavier I decided to leave my camera and telescope in the vehicle, which normally results in a good sighting of something and this was no exception. As we walked up a side road a Watkin’s Antpitta started calling close by and without even need for playback we were able to spot it. It must have found a perch that it liked as it just sat there and was still singing from the same perch when we walked away 10 minutes later.
As dusk approached we returned to the Jorupe reserve to look for Owls, we walked along the track for around 20 to 30 minutes and just as it started to get dark the first of several West Peruvian Screech-Owls started calling. We were able to tape it into a tree by the track, but were unable to see it, although Jose nearly stepped on a Pale-browed Tinamou in the process. It then flew over our heads to a tree the other side of the track, where we were also unable to see it. It then flew back over our heads into the original tree, but still out of sight. Eventually it went quiet and all we had seen was a dark shape flying quickly over us.
We continued to try for the Screech-Owl as we walked back, but without any luck. We did however manage to see a Spectacled Owl that sat in full view next to the track and I was even able to get some photos.
8th May
Macara regularly suffers shortages of fuel, due to Peruvians crossing the border that is only a couple of kilometres away to buy fuel. Hence our day started with a drive to a local petrol station, on arrival there was a queue of cars two abreast as far as the eye could see and the petrol station was not even open. So we set off towards Utuana and hoped to find fuel along the way.
We collected a ranger from Jorupe as we passed who wanted to visit the Utuana reserve and we were more than happy to offer him a ride. We passed through the town of Sozoranga and made a brief stop at a petrol station, but as it was only 5.45am it was not open. So we continued on to Utuana hoping that we could get fuel on our return journey.
Just before we arrived at the reserve proper Jose heard a Black-cowled Saltator so we stopped the van and quickly added this to our list. Fortuitously in the same area we found a female Silver-backed Tanager, which are not always that easy to find. We did however get to see a male later in the day, but these were our only two sightings.
At the entrance to the reserve we parked the van and quickly added Purple-throated Sunangel and Rainbow Starfrontlet to our burgeoning hummingbird list. The main track into the reserve was fairly quiet, apart from the sound of Chestnut-crowned Antpitta’s and a couple of Green-tailed Trainbearer’s. Arriving at an open area with a good view down the hillside we picked up a Red-crested Cotinga perched prominently in a treetop and our only Mountain Velvetbreast of the trip. A pair of Lesser Goldfinches was also seen from this vantage point.
Reaching the hummingbird feeders we were able to get much improved views of both Purple-throated Sunangels and Rainbow Starfrontlets, although the latter were so aggressive that they never allowed anything to settle for long. Whilst I was trying to photograph these Jose had wandered a little further on and had found a pair of Chapman’s Antshrikes, which when I arrived he was able to call in for great views. As we were watching these one of the specialities of Utuana, Black-crested Tit-Tyrant, put in an appearance. These birds only just get over the border from Peru and were one of the species I really wanted to see, with their black and white pattern and crest they really were as special as I had hoped.
Just after the hummingbird feeders area the main track starts to descend steeply. It has recently been widened, this has had the effect of creating a steep bank on the uphill side of the track, which prevents access into the forest which is necessary to try to seer the more skulking species. So when we eventually heard a Grey-headed Antbird we had to try to call it out from the track. This bird was very secretive however and all we were able to see were very brief glimpses of movement. When I did manage to get my binoculars onto it, all I could see was half of its tail, the rest of its body being concealed behind a thick branch. Eventually we conceded defeat and despite trying in other areas never even heard another.
Despite this disappointment we did see several other good birds on the track including a singing Plushcap, which posed for photos and a Plain-breasted Hawk that landed in a nearby tree for a short time. A Jelski’s Chat-Tyrant was seen briefly, whilst Masked and White-sided Flowerpiercers and Blue-and-black and Blue-capped Tanagers were seen well all managed to avoid being photographed.
As we walked back to the van for lunch we were able to tape in a Unicoloured Tapaculo, but the Chestnut-crowned Antpitta’s remained distant.
After lunch we birded along the entrance road for an hour where the habitat was more open. We quickly found several Bay-crowned Brush-Finches and Black-and-white Seedeaters were fairly common. A Streak-throated Bush-Tyrant was the first of the trip and a Rusty Flowerpiercer that was seen well was only the second sighting Jose had made of this species in Ecuador.
We then decided to drive back towards Sozoranga stopping to bird along the road on the way. When Jose heard a Rusty-breasted Antpitta singing we decided that this was too good an opportunity to miss and despite the steep slope and nearly impenetrable undergrowth we fought our way towards the bird. Once we arrived near to where the bird had been singing Jose played the tape and the bird called back. After a few minutes it became obvious that the bird was approaching us. The Jorupe ranger was the first to see it as it was coming in from his direction, but it then took another couple of minutes before it came in and perched within a couple of metres of Jose and I, about 2 metres of the ground.
Rusty-breasted Antpitta was only described from Ecuador a few years ago and does not appear in the Ecuador field Guide. Well satisfied with our sighting the return journey to the road was much easier and the icing on the cake was supplied by a White-rumped Hawk that glided overhead just as we stepped onto the road.
When we reached Sozoranga we found the petrol station open so we filled up and continued back towards Macara, dropping of the Jorupe ranger along the way. As it was about 4pm when we got back to Macara we opted for an exploration of the road to Zapatillo in hope of a few tumbesian species that we were still missing. Although we saw several tumbesian species the only two additions to the list were Blue-crowned Motmot and Blue-black Grassquit.