Just back from a 2-week cruise – the missus gets to choose our holiday occasionally! – and I must say it was most enjoyable, and not as birdless as I had feared.
Several people asked me to let them know how the cruise went, so apologies if you’re not interested in this, and I’ll keep it fairly brief and bird-orientated, but happy to answer questions.
We departed Southampton on Fri 28.10, arrived in Madeira Tue 1.11, then 5 “sea days”, with Antigua 7.11, St Maartin 8.11, St Kitt’s 9.11, St Lucia 10.11 and Barbados 11.11, flying home later that day. We took P&O organised trips on all islands, as time was limited and we were new to the experience. None of the trips were geared towards birding, but at least they were a convenient way of seeing a little of the surrounding area. It would be quite straightforward to hire a taxi, or book a car, and travel to specific sites if birding was the primary objective; prior to the trip I had visions of thousands of passengers disembarking en masse, but that never happened.
Bird-wise, the journey to Madeira produced a few Cory’s and Great Shearwater, Bonxie, Storm Petrel etc, but the Biscay crossing was at night. 3 Minke Whales showed extremely well, but no other cetaceans. A Blackcap arriving onboard as darkness fell on the Sunday was well off-course. On Madeira itself we’d booked a whale and dolphin cruise, which went out a couple of miles then hugged the coast, but which surprisingly produced point-blank views of a Madeiran Storm-petrel and 2 Fea’s Petrels, plus lots of Cory’s; a swimming stop in a remote cove was also handy, with 2 Trocaz Pigeons at the foot of the cliffs. A couple of 1st-winter Meds were on the beach by the marina, and Canaries were in the surrounding trees, but there was no sign of the long-staying Yellow-crowned Night Heron in a slightly more than cursory look. No whales nor dolphins were seen on the trip!
The Atlantic crossing was almost bird-free, despite hour upon hour of effort every day – Cory’s and Great Shearwater were seen in very small numbers, and Wilson’s Petrel were suspected but unproven. A Grey Heron heading SW when we were 320 nautical miles WSW of Madeira was a sad sight, as the next stop on that heading would have been Brazil. Next landbird sighting was another surprise, and a mystery, with a hummingbird sp buzzing around the ship late afternoon on Sun 6.11 after very strong winds and a heavy rain shower, when we were approx 340 nautical miles from land. The only migrant species in the area appears to be Ruby-throated, but as no plumage details were noted it was impossible to say for sure.
Travel between islands was undertaken at night, so the only seabirds seen were those in the ports and close inshore. Magnificent Frigatebirds and Brown Boobies were ever-present, but Red-billed Tropicbirds were only seen a couple of times. Royal Terns were common.
On the islands, Bananaquit and Grey Kingbird were the most abundant species, Caribbean Grackle and Shiny Cowbirds were regularly seen, as were Zenaida Dove, Common Ground-dove, Black-faced Grassquit and Lesser Antillean Bullfinch. Hummingbirds were regularly seen but not in large numbers; all three species (Purple- and Green-throated Carib, plus Antillean Crested Hummingbird) were noted.
White-crowned Pigeon were only seen on Antigua, with several around the port area. Pearly-eyed Thrasher were seen on St Maarten, in the town, and a flock of Swallows contained a few Swift which must have been Lesser Antillean by size and shape, but aren’t supposed to occur here? Also out of range were 3 White-winged Dove seen from the scenic railway tour on St Kitt’s, with Caribbean Martin (out of season?), White-rumped Sand and GBB Gull around the harbour area (prior to getting soaked in a downpour).
St Lucia was the island with the most potential, and there were clearly more birds around. A full day trip was taken here, and the only Broad-winged Hawks of the trip were seen, as well as Tropical Mockingbird in a churchyard, and two large flocks of Lesser Antillean Swifts, containing several 100s of birds. The best spot was by the sulphur springs, where walking beyond the tour guided area came up trumps with St Lucia Black Finch (a male, close to the path), several Scaly-breasted Thrasher and a Whiskered Vireo within a few minutes. Continuing a theme, the only Scaly-naped Pigeon were seen from the boat on the way back, at a swimming stop. The final lifer was Eared Dove on Barbados, a species far less numerous than expected.
Coots were seen on St Maarten, but not specifically ID'ed.
Not many pics taken; I'll post the best once sorted out.
[QUOTE=MSA;2289245]Just back from a 2-week cruise – the missus gets to choose our holiday occasionally! – and I must say it was most enjoyable, and not as birdless as I had feared.
Several people asked me to let them know how the cruise went, so apologies if you’re not interested in this, and I’ll keep it fairly brief and bird-orientated, but happy to answer questions.
On Madeira itself we’d booked a whale and dolphin cruise, which went out a couple of miles then hugged the coast, but which surprisingly produced point-blank views of a Madeiran Storm-petrel and 2 Fea’s Petrels, plus lots of Cory’s; a swimming stop in a remote cove was also handy, with 2 Trocaz Pigeons at the foot of the cliffs.
[/QUOTE]
Interesting read, and no need to apologise!
You were lucky with the Trocaz Pigeons. I only saw them in their typical habitat of the laurel forests when I visited Madeira in the late 1990s.
Allen