Day 1 - 23rd May – Fuente de Andalucia/Lantejuela/”Laguna Ojuelos” area (Seville province) Laguna de Medina (Cadiz province)
We were up very early for the flight from Stansted, but due to delays, we arrived at Seville airport a little late around mid-day. After the usual formalities we got ‘on the road’ and headed east to explore the farmlands east of Seville, specifically those near Lantejuela. Instead of doing the ‘obvious thing’ and heading north towards the well trodden ground of Extremadura we wanted to search areas further south for bustards and sandgrouse. Without detailed, specific information finding our target species, was always going to be a ‘long shot’ and so it proved. Having seen Black-bellied Sandgrouse (from the train!) near the dried up Laguna Ojuelos a few years previously, I was hopeful we might find some in this area. Unfortunately a key track which follows the railway was closed so our exploration here was curtailed. A bonus, though, was finding half-a-dozen Rollers in the area; despite their omission from the latest Garcia & Patterson there is clearly a healthy population in the area. This was brilliant news since it was one of Jim’s ‘most wanted’ birds! We also had Stone Curlew, Collared Pratincole, Bee-eater, Booted & Short-toed Eagles both kites, Montagu’s Harrier , 20+ Lesser Kestrels, Red-rumped Swallows, half-a-dozen Hoopoes, some Calandra Lark barging about & Melodious Warbler. It was certainly worth the detour, but next time I’d like to try exploring areas further east of La Lantejuela or south of Carmona. Having more time and local info would also help!
Driving south to get to Alcalá de los Gazules in good time, we had time only for a quick look at Laguna de Medina. Here we quickly picked up another Melodious Warbler, numerous Nightingale, Fan-taileds, more Reed & Great Reed Warbler in the scrub whilst the laguna itself held dauntingly high numbers of Common Coot, a few Great-crested, Little and Black-necked Grebe, Red-crested Pochard and another target species – White-headed Duck. Arriving at Alcalá, we had the usual dozen or more Lesser Kestrels at close range from the terrace.
Day 2 - 24th – Algaida pinewoods, Laguna Tarelo, Algaida-Trebujena Marshes,
Mesa de Asta marsh & Cantarranas (Cadiz province)
We were up before first light for our first full day in the field. Since Azure-winged Magpie was another of our target birds we headed straight for Algaida pinewoods (Sanlucar) which is the only site for the species in Cadiz province. These are now very elusive at this site; I’d seen a small party here in February 2006 and friends had seen them in May 2007, but I knew they’d be tough. It took us two hours of hard slog, but we eventually found a single bird (near the picnic site) which gave the briefest of views. Laguna Tarelo nearby provided the expected good views of Night and Squacco Herons and Little Egrets, but not the expected White-headed Ducks. A Hobby perched in a pine next to the track was a bonus.
Driving through the woods an onto the Algaida-Trebujena marshes, we headed south (i.e. back towards Bonanza) along the track next to the Guadalquivir. Two more target species, “Greater” and Lesser Short-toed Lark quickly showed themselves, but, although we certainly had Crested Lark, none of the ‘probable’ Theklas showed well enough to be certain. We parked up at the end of the gravel track and continued south on foot (actually, despite appearances, this track was perfectly drivable in dry weather). The taller scrub on the right had very obliging Spectacled Warbler. Naturally there were hundreds of spectacular Flamingos (yes, I did look for Lesser!). A systematic scan of the skies over Donana produced a couple of ‘interesting’ raptors - a good squint through the scope confirmed that they were Spanish Imperial Eagles. Bingo!
Other birds added to our growing list included a fly over Slender-billed Gulls, Great White Egret and a good mix of waders. Heading north along the river towards Trebujena we found another ‘target’ bird Marbled Duck plus Collared Praticoles, Purple Heron and Glossy Ibis. One expected bird that we hadn’t yet found was Gull-billed Tern. Here my previous experience of the area came in useful – although not noted in any site guide the marsh off the Trebujena-Jerez road (near Mesas de Asta) is an excellent site for this species. Sure enough as we approached the site small flocks of Gull-billed Terns were seen hawking low over the fields; the undulating fields make an accurate count difficult but around 350-500 birds were present. This site also provided us with better views of Collared Pratimcole – including two birds determined to ‘see off’ a hunting Montagu’s Harrier. It’s a pity the main marsh is private and so distant from the road since this is a superb little site. We then headed back to the house for a bite to eat and another performance by the local Lesser Kestrels.
Having eaten, it was a 25 minute drive over to Cantarranas for a dusk vigil. I’d discovered this cracking little site a couple of years ago and hoped that it wouldn’t disappoint – and it didn’t. In the fields beyond the olive groves the local Black-winged Kite appeared on cue much to the delight of the other two guys. It was a tick for both and a ‘bogey’ bird for Allan. After getting ‘sit-up-and-beg’ views the kite drifted off. Not long afterwards we had the first repeated ‘coo-tock coo-tock coo-tock’ calls and then the ghostly sight of a couple of Red-necked Nightjars! Another target tick for Jim & Allan!
Day 3 - 25th – Grazalema – Llanos de Libar (Cadiz province)
As this was predicted to be the driest day of our visit it seemed sensible to explore the notoriously wet Grazalema area so it was another early start. We picked up Thekla Lark at the venta on the Ubrique turning plus a young Woodlark (more of which were heard later). Unfortunately, as we approached the mountains it began to rain and, by the time, we reached Montejaque heavy rain had set in. The drive along the fabulous Llanos de Libar (GR7) was damp and disappointing. However, as we drove back along the same route the rain began to lift and birds came out to feed. Rock Sparrow were everywhere and easy to pick up as they noisily called. A couple of Cirl Buntings also showed themselves whilst in the rockier areas Blue Rock Thrush, Rock Buntings, Black & Black-eared Wheatears performed very well. The light, open woodland that had been quiet earlier was now alive with the sound of singing Orphean Warblers and a singing Dartford Warbler popped into view. Raptors now also showed themselves with Booted & Short-toed Eagles appearing first then Griffon and Egyptian Vultures. Back near Montejaque we quickly found more of the same plus high flying (and presumably migrating) Black Kites and Honey Buzzards. However, the undoubted star of the show was a fine Bonelli’s Eagle which circled lazily before us allowing a full appreciation of all details of its plumage. Heading back towards Grazalema village the weather worsened so we headed back to Alcalá. The wet weather probably cost us a number of species (Alpine Swift & Common Rock Thrush amongst others), but despite this we had a fabulous day. After a little shopping at the ‘service station’, I noted an interesting area of habitat near the village for future investigation …..
Day 4 - 26th – Sierra de la Plata (Bolonia), Sierra de Higuerra (Bolonia), Playa de los Lances (Tarifa) & La Janda
Despite best intentions we failed to get up early this morning and left the house late …. at 7:00 AM! This meant we failed to get to Sierra de la Plata by first light as planned. It was disappointing that, after over an hour, we’d had no sightings of any ‘white-rumped’ swifts (and only a single Common/Pallid). Even so good views of Blue Rock Thrush, Rock Bunting, Golden Oriole and Griffon Vulture. Next stop was the nearby Sierra de Higuerra. As we drove down the rough track we picked up our only Tawny Pipit of the trip and another fine Black-eared Wheatear. Stopping at what seemed to be a ‘likely spot’ (an open meadow dotted with mature olive trees) we soon heard an unfamiliar song and glimpsed a distant “Nightingale” which appeared to sport a prominent supercilium! As hoped, after a short wait this bird quickly resolved itself into a fine Rufous Bush Chat. Technically not a tick, but I last saw this species the best part of 40 years ago! Having worked the area pretty well it was time to get down to Playa de los Lances before it got too disturbed. The new boardwalk made access easy, but, unfortunately, there were few birds on the beach – a few waders (Grey, Kentish & Ringed Plovers, Sanderlings & Avocets), a handful of gulls and no terns! Meeting some English birders here who were keen to see Rufous Bush Chat we double back to the Sierra de Higuerra where we quickly re-located a bird for them. This time it showed stunningly well down to a few metres.
(Interestingly this couple had visited Alcalá especially to see Lesser Kestrel following the recommendation in Garcia et al – perhaps this’ll mean I’ll see more Brit birders in the village since the best place for the species is from my terrace!)
It has to be said that at the moment La Janda is very disappointing ornithologically with few birds (but it did hold our first and only Little Ringed Plover) and little standing water. In part this was made up for by the fact that the roads here have resurfaced and improved making navigation round crater-like pot holes a thing of the past. That said, the locals are already belting along here at absurd speeds and it remains to be seen whether these improvements will increase traffic to the detriment of the birds & birders. However, on the far (i.e. Benalup) side) of the marsh, we hit a ‘purple’ patch – with Purple Gallinule and Purple Heron.
Back near the village, I decided to check out the habitat noticed the previous day before heading up to the house. Sometimes hunches pay off since we quickly located a couple of pairs of (Western) Olivaceous Warblers – thus saving a lengthy drive to more distant sites.
After a quick meal it was decided to head back to Bolonia for an evening crack at those pesky swifts. Once back beneath that all too familiar cave we soon saw the all of birds noted earlier, but later added a good Egyptian Vulture. At 9:30 PM a White-rumped Swift shot over – again a tick for Jim & Allan. Then at 9:45 PM – talking about leaving it late! – a swift came bouncing in at great speed. It’s whirring, demented clockwork flight marked it out as something special and its cut-off tail did nothing to diminish this impression, but it was good to see a strapping great white rump – a LITTLE SWIFT at bloomin’ last! Dear reader, after many a negative foray here, this one was a tick for me! A cheerful party headed home for Alcalá.
Day 5 - 27th – Molinos – Alcalá area (Cadiz province)
After a run of very early starts and a good deal of driving it was either an ‘easy’ day or suffer a mutiny from the ‘troops’. Being no Captain Bligh and in the absence of breadfruit, I opted for some gentle R&R. Hence, we had a relaxed start (and a proper breakfast) before we got going. Our first stop was down by the motorway to check on the Olivaceous Warblers. Fortunately the birds showed well although since traffic had increased hearing them well was more problematic. Also present here were Cetti’s Warbler and Red-rumped Swallow. Then it was a relaxed walk up the nearby Molinos valley picking up our first Long-tailed Tits and Iberian Chiffchaffs. Indifferent weather drove us back to the house where we lazed about for the rest of the afternoon. That evening we awarded ourselves with excellent three course meal, complete with 3 different wines and brandy to follow, cooked by master chief Allan
Day 6 - 28th – Algaida pinewoods, Bonanza saltpans, Algaida ‘pools’, Cabo Trafalgar & Barbate (Cadiz province)
Given the poor views we’d had of Azure-winged Magpie on the 24th and the fact we’d yet to look at Bonanza saltpans we headed back towards Sanlucar today. As feared the magpie eluded us although we did realise just how many Tree Sparrows (a scarce bird in Cadiz) the woods held and saw the Hobby again - perched in virtually the same tree! Fearing excessive heat haze later in the day, we moved on to Bonanza.
A young Osprey showed well here as did a fine Red Kite , but the oddest record we got here was of a bird I can only suppose was a dark phase Long-legged Buzzard. At first we all thought ‘small eagle’ as that’s what the bird’s wing shape (the looked longer than a Common Buzzard’s) and more obvious head suggested. The body and upper wing seemed uniformly dark (i.e. no pale areas or counter shading) as did the underwing coverts and carpals. However, as it banked it clearly had a buzzard-style dark band along the tips of the greyish off white secondaries and dark fingers with a clear unmarked white ‘hand’. The most marked feature was the tail; this had a whitish ground colour, a dark blackish terminal band and 5-6 regularly spaced coarse dark bands across it. The trouble is that North African Long-legged doesn’t have a dark phase …..
Raptors aside we also had more good views of waders including more summer plumage Sanderlings. Odd how they seem commoner this far south than in SE Kent. There were many more Slender-billed Gulls were about and two more terns – Sandwich and Caspian – were added to the tally.
A detour to what I’ve dubbed ‘Algaida pools’ (not in any guide!) which are hidden amongst the market garden plots east of Bonanza saltpans came up trumps with several Little Bittern showing well and our best views of White-headed Duck of the trip. (Little Bittern can be very hard to see elsewhere in the vicinity, despite being present, but are very easy here).
Realising that the new motorway down to Vejer made a detour to Trafalgar viable, this is where we headed next to pick up any seabirds. Just over an hour later we were watching Balearic & Cory’s Shearwater and Gannet. However, there were no terns moving and the beach was bereft of the expected Audouin’s Gull. Since I had to drop a book off to a friend in Barbate we dropped in for a quick look at the estuary – fortunately both Audouin’s and Mediterranean Gulls were present. Then it was back home for some R&R.