14th-22nd September 2007
(Just one day on the peninsula - the rest of the holiday was spent on Mull)
Friday 14th Made good time and soon after driving over Rannoch Moor , before we reached Glencoe, we took the road signed off to our left up Glen Etive. We’ve never driven the length of this glen before – we’ve either been passing driving much farther north or we’ve been setting off for home at the end of a holiday. Huge, imposing mountain hemmed in the narrow road – but they would be huge as I suppose they’re part of the Glencoe range. The weather was fine and sunny. A red-breasted merganser was on a lochan to our left as we drove. An LBJ in rhododendrons could have been a willowwarbler. Then saw a stonechat. On our return to the main road we continued on to Fort William for essential supplies – gin, whisky etc…… and then found our guesthouse in Onich that we’d booked a few days earlier. It was The Old Manse on the roadside opposite the Onich hotel. Very comfortable – breakfast in our room in the morning. On Loch Linnhe were cormorants, g/b/b gull.
Saturday 15th To Morrisons in Fort William again for a ‘proper’ shop this time before returning to the Corran ferry and onto the Ardnamurchan peninsula. We had planned to go along the ‘B’ road recommended by Delia (Todd, that is, not Smith!) towards Lochaline and the Mull ferry but the weather was very wet by now with low cloud so we kept driving on the main road and soon the weather improved. Mallards in Loch Sunart – lots of cormorant, shags, hoodies, and chaffinches. We were still thinking of a short drive then returning to Lochaline but the visitor centre past Glenborrowdale was a long time coming .Enjoyed home-made soup in the tea-shop there and a look through the exhibition centre (didn’t crawl through the wild-cat’s den this time as I did many years ago when egged on by our grand-daughters!) Watched CCTV film of golden eagle/hoodies & buzzards on a deer carcase on the hill. It was film of another day as there was no action there at the moment. Watched the video of Ardnamurchan which never fails to impress us with the scenery, flora & fauna of the peninsula.
We decided not to make the return journey to Lochaline but to carry on to Kilchoan and take the ferry from there to Tobormory. The extra fare paid would be cancelled out by the petrol and time taken to drive back. Saw buzzard perched on a fence on the edge of the forest. It oblingingly flew off onto another fence in front of us. Just some herring gulls in view from the car as we waited for the ferry from our position of number 1 in the queue – well, we were the queue. The ferry crossing was 40 minutes and as the boat ploughed through the waves, water came up onto the deck through the sides of the bow doors.
Drove south from Tobormory, turning right at Salen then at Gruline we turned through the big stone gate posts of the Gruline Estate. The cottage was about a mile up this track from the main road, lush woodland all around. There were two more cottages nearby and the estate owner arrived shortly after we did. A lovely big kitchen and everything we will need.
(Terrible news on the TV that a helicopter registered to Colin McRea has crashed near his home, with 4 people dead. They are not yet certain that he is one of these).
Sunday 16th Slept well, as always. After a late breakfast we drove to Loch na Keal. We think Gruline House is the one on the lochside where we saw WTE in a tree last year (Found out later
that the house is Glenmore House and Gruline House is further round the lochside, not visible from the footpath. Oystercatcher by the lochside. Saw wren, robin & blackbird as we motored near the bridge. Meadow pipits by the lochside then what I thought was a crow on some seaweed 2’ out in the water. Got binnies on it and it was an otter! Watched it for 5 mins until it disappeared out of view. Loads more meadow pipits, a grey wagtail, heron, hoodies, two buzzards, kestrel, curlew and 3 red breasted mergansers out in the middle of the loch. Two gannets soaring over the water and lesser black backed gull. Lots of water coming down the hillside which makes for lovely waterfalls. Must have rained lots during the night.
Many swallows feeding very low down with a few house martins. Stonechat singing on a bush and a large flock of greylag geese grazing on the short grass between us and the water. A dozen shag were drying their wings on the small island (it was raining at the time!). 3 teal loafing about in the shallows.
Back to the cottage to watch the Belgian GP.
Drove the length of Loch na Keal then through Glen More on the main road. A juvenile stonechat on the lochside and loads & loads of chaffinch, which had replaced the dozens of meadow pipits from earlier in the day. The rain had stopped – now blue sky and sun. No raptors over the mountain tops. On one of the sandbanks that should have had a white-tailed eagle on were abut 30 lesser black backed gulls (it’s even boring typing their name! Can’t find anything interesting in gulls) Seals were hauled out on the banks. Nearby were two little grebe and 4 ravens were flying by the hillside as we approached Griburn. Later we stopped a few times to scan the sea for otters near the mussel farm and beyond.
Monday 17th Woke early, as usual, and prepared breakfast. Listened to Classic FM and read my
book. This really is a wonderful place. The cottage is surrounded by woodland and it is
just a 5 mins. walk to the edge of the loch. Not seen anyone from the other cottages yet – one is a holiday let and the other is occupied by the man who works on the estate. Seems to be mainly a shooting estate. I keep going to the door and looking at the sky – waiting for an eagle to glide past. WTE are seen nearby and we have seen them in previous years at the loch which is just visible between the trees. Blackbird, wren & robin on the wall outside the cottage.
(The news programme confirms that it was Colin McRae, his son and two friends who were killed in the crash. I feel so terribly sad for the family – and the rallying world)
Drove to Loch na Keal (this might get very boring for anyone reading this but anyone who knows the area knows that being so close to this loch means you have to look there each day – there’s usually something new to see). Saw an otter again in the same area as yesterday. Noticably cooler today but bright with showers now and then. Little grebe in the loch.
Back through Gruline then to Salen and turned right at the main road, driving past Craignure then to Grass Point. Two gannets diving just offshore. Very blustery and cold here at the coast. No eagle worth its salt would by flying. Lots of chaffinch and pied wagtails. Heard twite low down in the tussocks but didn’t see them. Returning to the main road we had a big raptor over a stand of trees down to our right. Thought it was a harrier but after watching for a short while we put it down to a buzzard. Two tern species at Grasspoint. They were small but not little terns
Back to the main road then to Loch Bui. Lovely scenic drive down the side of Loch Spelvie then through the valley with high mountains on the right. Flock of mistle thrushes on the hillside (had put redwings in my notes here but had second thoughts later in the week as we saw huge flock of thrushes in another place that looked just the same). A large flock of greylag geese were grazing in a meadow about a mile north of the Glenforsa Hotel.
Before taking the turn-off for the cottage we had another look at Loch na Keal. Nothng new except the farmer was herding 100s of sheep – they were driven towards us and surrounded the car as they passed. They were spooked then because of the car and veered off to where the farmer didn’t want them to go. Sheep are so stupid!
Back to the cottage for a bite to eat then we walked into the woods by the cottage. These are private and we were given a key to the deer gate when we arrived so we could go as far as we wished. This track goes part way up the loch on the opposite bank to the track which we’ve walked many times . Not a very clear view to the loch from the path as there are trees between us and the water, but it was good to be walking in this ancient woodland. I’m so glad I took my wellies –not had them off my feet so far!
Tuesday 18th Nothing of note on Loch na Keal. Drove back to the junction near Gruline and took the road on the opposite bank of the loch, towards the Ulva ferry. It was a fine, bright morning with a good view of the opposite hills. No eagles around. Wonder if other birders have seen them? There aren’t many people around to ask. Lovely drive right up to Calgary. Oystercatcher on the beach. A kestrel flying by. A greenshank was in the bay at Dervaig. Took the road to the west of Loch Frisa, towards Aros and soon after there were about 30 thrushes on each side of the road; flying across our path; on the telegraph wires. They were mistle thrushes. Thought they were fieldfare from a distance.
We joined the main road again at Salen., soon after stopping to scan a hillock on the horizon where we’d seen a WTE last year – as if it would still be sitting there waiting for us to pass by!!
Back again to Loch na Keal, driving straight on this time to meet the main road and Glen More. Drizzling by now. A disappointing day in bird terms but wonderful scenery and quiet roads. As they say “Tomorrow is Another Day”. Maybe we should stay by the cottage and look up into the sky all day.
To be cont......................
Nice story so far Sandra.I have a feeling Part 2 shall have you seeing both species of Eagles.
Yes - but it had got to Wednesday without any so did panic a bit! Somehow I always feel I can relax a bit when we've got those under our belt