The chap who runs Paz de Las Aves is called Angel Paz and Paz de Las Aves could be seen to be a pun on his name. It's a beautiful place and the way he calls out the antpittas and wood-quail is brilliant.
It sounded as if the rainy season was well underway when you were there and I am surpised you made it up to Yanacocha as that road is bad enough even before full wet season - well it was when I was there. I went up there in December and I didn't think we were going to make it in one or two sections of the road!
Like you, I was pleasantly surprised by the long distance buses. I too was expecting chicken-and-pig buses with people and luggage on the roof but one bus (a big Mercedes coach) I travelled on was brand new and National Express or Greyhound would not have turned their noses up at it. It had air con, movies, a loo (for women only!) and comfy seats. It was also incredibly clean.
I see you were told that Ecuador was one of the most difficult places in the world for bird photography but I am glad you found it otherwise and I'd agree. I found bird photography far easier in Ecuador than here in the UK. The light levels did make it difficult, especially in forest, however.