Some had said I was mad to go. Just eight months after Russians stomped all over the country, and just days after rising tensions had seen uprisings and possible military coups in the capital, along with Russians back on the border of the separatist region of South Ossetia, I flew into Tbilisi for a week of amazing birding in this excellent corner of the Western Palearctic.
Main destination was Kazbegi, a mere stone's throw from the Russian border, not much further from South Ossetia itself. High in the shadow of 5000 metre mountains, a true Alpine paradise - stunning scaneries and, moreover, sole home to three Western Palearctic specialities (Caucasian Snowcock, Great Rosefinch, Guldenstadt's Redstart), plus the highly localised Caucasian Black Grouse and Green Warbler.
Should I have success with all these, I then had ideas to wander southward to the opposite border and spend a couple of days birding on the Steppes along the Armenian border.
DAILY LOG
Day One
After an overnight flight, I took a short kip at the airport, then caught the 4.15 a.m. train to central Tbilisi, then immediately organised a taxi 140 km direct to Kasbegi.
Impressive route, up the Georgian Military Highway climbing higher and higher via hairpins and tunnels, eventually over the Krestovvy Pass at 2400 metres. Many birds here - didn't stop, but large numbers of Twite and Water Pipits, two Snow Finch and a Ring Ouzel. At 7.30 a.m., a kilometre short of the village of Kazbegi, a flash of red and white by the roadside, I immediately abandoned my taxi! Now perched atop a bush, a stunning male Guldenstadt's Redstart, what amazing luck! Of all the specialities, this is the one I had expected to struggle with, but here it was, the very first bird I saw, superb. Adjacent, Caucasian Chiffchaffs in abundance, plus two Common Rosefinches - the birding had begun! Getting my bearings, I realised I was just below meadows and scrub south-east of the village, localities mentioned in birding reports, so off I went. Twite everywhere, at least 120, plus Water Pipits common, several Red-backed Shrikes and the first Red-fronted Serins zipping over. The day was shaping up to be excellent, both in terms of birds and weather - quite against the forecast, blue skies and sun. From crags above, the wild call of Caucasian Snowcocks echoed down, most evocative - I had intended to dump my bag in my accommodation, but I thought it wise to use the weather and push on, climbing to the higher slopes. Soon I was at the first snow and there I found a whole pack of birds, all feeding at the base of the drift, where the ice turned to shingle - loads of Twite again, but amongst them other birds. A quick scan and I was looking at my first ever Great Rosefinch, a chunky female. Panning right, another and another, then a crimson-red male, dappled in white speckling. What fantastic birds. About 15 in all, another key species under the belt and it was still not 10.00 a.m.!
Upward I climbed, this was a hard slog - the slope had turned to 60 degrees and I was nearing 2500 metres. Fortunately, the amazing scenery gave good reason to pause for numerous breaks. Butterflies and alpine flowers dotted the slopes, quite warm even at this altitude. Still the Caucasian Snowcocks called up ahead. More Red-fronted Serins flitted over, Alpine Choughs wheeeled in the sky. Suddenly, from the tip of a ravine, just as I entered the rhododendrium zone, a whirl of wings, a Caucasian Black Grouse flushed - another new species, splendid views as the female flapped and glided right across the deep valley to land on the slope opposite. I was now in Caucasian Snowcock territory, birds were calling on all sides. Choosing a sheltered spot, overooking crags and meadows, I began a scan. Not seeing any, I climbed a little further, but barely had I clambered a few metres and I bumped right into a pair. Who was the more startled, I am not sure, but the two birds rose from a grassy dip, flying straight over my head. superb birds. Watched them wing across the valley, then enjoyed prolonged views as they landed and ambled up a rocky outcrop, the male calling in constant display. A nearby pair answered the intruder's call, soon I located them too. Now early afternoon and still warm and sunny, the effects of a night of travel, not to mention the hike up the mountain, caught up with me - on a grassy perch, high above a snowfield and scree slope, I snoozed off, forty winks well deserved. Some time later, refreshed, I was subjected to an abrupt awakening - sudden, loud calls of Snowcocks! I opened my eyes just in time to see two cruising back across the valley, passing just tens of metres from me.
What a super place this Kazbegi was - I'd come to see the four specialities (Caucasian Snowcock, Caucausian Black Grouse, Guldenstadt's Redstart [B]and Great Rosefinch[/B]) and already I had seen them all, even better had savoured them all in weather better than I could have hoped for. I began my descent, seeing yet more Caucasian Snowcocks, and sought out my accommodation in the village. Black Redstarts sang from roof tops, a Red-breasted Flycatcher flitted in a riverside tree. Now 4 p.m., sense would have dictated a break, but I decided for a wander back to the scrub where the Guldenstadt's Redstart had been. No joy in relocating, but nearby Rock Buntings and three Red-throated Pipits ended the first eventful day. I slept well.
Haven't processed most photographs, but here's one to be going on with, one of the stars
wow! i'm very jealous. A place thats high on my wishlist! Do you have any chance of Caspian Snowcock or are they further south?