We just returned from a fantastic trip to Panama. My wife and I were looking for a short birding trip in the Neo-tropics and, after reading a number of trip reports from the area and looking at bird lists, we decided on Panama. We chose Central Panama for ease of connections and proximity to some great birding areas. After checking out accommodations and packages, we finally booked 3 days at the Canopy Tower and 3 days at their new Canopy Lodge in El Valle. All ground transportation, meals, and bird guides were arranged by them and were included in the price. Following is a link to their website, which gives a brief description of many of the areas that we visited: Canopy Tower
Our first day, we arrived at the Canopy Tower just in time for lunch. After eating we checked out the hummingbird feeders and found White-necked Jacopin, Rufous-tailed Hummingbird, and White-vented Plumeleter, as well as a Lesser Greenlet nearby. We then took a short siesta (as birds got pretty quiet at midday) and then at 3:30 headed out with a local guide to an area called the Summit Pond. Here we found Boat-billed Heron, Orange-chinned Parakeet, Ringed, Amazon, and Green Kingfishers, Greater Ani, and one of the best birds, a staked out Spectacled Owl. After 3 hours of great birding we headed back to the Tower, making one stop en route for a Common Potoo perched roadside. We finished up the day looking out over the rainforest canopy from the Tower’s observation deck, picking up two more lifers, the Red-lored Parrot and Chestnut-mandibled Toucan. At dark, we gave up birding, and finished up the day with a good dinner and retired early. We set our alarm for 5:30 AM thinking we would be sleeping soundly.
Well, we did sleep soundly, at least till 5 AM, when a troop of Howler Monkeys who had bedded down in the canopy just outside our window, awoke. They thought everyone else should be up as well and were howling outrageously. It actually was a wonderful way to be awakened! We were up on the Tower’s observation deck at sunrise enjoying coffee while we watched the Canopy come to life. Lots of Parrots calling and we found another lifer, Mealy Parrot. Saw a kettle of 8 Mississippi Kite’s heading north, several Swainson’s Hawks, lots of Keel-billed Toucans and Collared Aracaris, a Scaled Pigeon, Blue Cotinga (immature male that was just half blue!), and a Green Shrike-Vireo. We also watched a pair of Scarlet-rumped Caciques just putting the finishing touches on their new nest in the Tower’s back yard. After an hour or so, we took a walk down Semaphore Hill for some of the under-storey birds. We found Broad-billed and Rufous Motmots, Checkered-throated Antbird, Dot-winged Antwren, Slaty Antshrike, Fasciated Antshrike, Blue-crowned Manakin (another immature male bird), and a Black-breasted Puffbird. And at the bottom of the hill, we checked out a staked out Great Potoo. Great views although the location didn’t give the best angles for photographing him.
That afternoon we made a trip to Old Gamboa and the Ammo Pond. We picked up Flame-rumped Tanager, Red-legged Honeycreeper, and Variable and Yellow-bellied Seedeaters in Gamboa and then on to the Ammo Pond. Here we found tons of birds – Yellow-headed Caracara, Black-striped Sparrow, Rufous-margined, Social, Panama, and Boat-billed Flycatchers, Smooth-billed Ani, and Wattled Jacana among so many others.
The next day we would go to Pipeline Road - I’ll post that section of the trip report tomorrow.
Below are photos of some of the birds seen: Black-striped Sparrow, Black-breasted Puffbird, Great Potoo, Blue-crowned Manakin, Flame-rumped Tanager
Nice one, Dave- looking forward to the next instalments...
We were up at dawn for a quick breakfast and then off to Pipeline Road. We’d really been anticipating this as we’ve heard so much about this area – and boy did it ever live up to its rep! We started just before the entrance to PL Road in a brushy area where we heard some Manakins making their sharp clapping sound. It took a while to get good views, but we did get them – at least of the female – Golden-collared Manakin and passable views of the male. We also got Buff-throated Saltator and Blue Dacnis prior to starting down that famous road. And what was waiting for us right at the entrance? Little Tinamou!!!! Crossed the road right in front of us – my first ever Tinamou. Things were really looking good. We hiked down the road stopping frequently as birds were calling from everywhere. We found Purple-throated Fruitcrows quickly (they’re noisy) and enjoyed watching them high in the canopy (read – crick in the neck). There were also a number of Black-chested Jays nearby. We also found 5 woodpecker species; Red-crowned, Crimson-crested, Black-cheeked, Cinnamon, and Lineated. We also had a number of understorey birds, a singing Rosy Thrush-Tanager, Plain Xenops, Red-capped Manakin, Gray-headed Tanager, Dot-winged Antwren, Spotted Antbird, and the best - Chestnut-backed Antbird. We came across several Hummingbirds including Stripe-throated Hermit (split from Little hermit), and White-vented Plumeleteer. Next, we found our most cooperative birds of the trip, a pair of White-whiskered Puffbirds just 2 meters off the trail and just a meter off the ground. They posed for views and photos as long as we were willing to watch! And then at a small trail off Pipeline Road we found the Trogons – Violaceous, Black-tailed, Black-throated, and Slaty-tailed. Fantastic views of all. The only one in the area that we didn’t find was the White-tailed but we have seen that on previous trips to the tropics so didn’t miss it too much. On our hike back we picked up a few raptors – Gray Hawk and Yellow-headed Caracara. And then a really cute (is that possible) three-toed sloth with its baby. This road was definitely one of the highlights of the trip!
One thing I remember from our trips to Costa Rica is how infrequently you find any road signs - I took the picture below (the trogon trail) because I was in stitches seeing such a small trail marked with a road sign (and the road really did narrow!) They are way ahead of their neighbors on this category.